G16 sputter& die

[Ronniet]

I am new to golf carts, a G16 was brought to me to fix for one of my Grandkids.It had been setting awhile. needed some things, , Battery , belts cable ends,filters Key switch etc. Got all of it together, and it takes forever to get fired up, find out the fuel pump is not working, I clean the pump out, and still no pumping, I find out the pickup tube on the gas tank is sucking air.
I built a new one from steel, put new clear vinyl lines on all places and spray carb with cleaner to get it running and soon it fills the lines and starts running, but not good.
This is all done with the air cleaner off, I have read all the post about air leaks etc.
and I can tell the carb has been worked on as the plastic tamper proof thing-a-ma-jig is missing from the air adjustment screw.
So its running like a 2 cylinder just hitting on one.
I had changed the plug already, so I pull the air cover off the fly wheel, give all of that a good cleaning and re-adjustment on the coil/magnet, but still just sputtering. So I adjust the vales and check the springs for breaks etc. all good and going up and down.
Still nothing, every time you touch the throttle to go it backfires a little out the carb.
BTW I took the muffler off and made sure it was clean by using a huge volume of air pushing thru it.
So I take the carb off and give it a cleaning, sure enough someone has beat me to it because one of the float legs are broke off at the float pin.
But all is good as the pin is securely attached and isn't going anywhere.
I just cant take the needle out but it does have the right float angle and shuts off the flow of gas.
I make new gaskets for the adaptor which I do inspect for cracks, none were found. Put on the new gaskets and clean carb and still the same, so I decide to put the air cleaner box and filters on , still the same, no cracks or leaks were found around the air box and I used a new gasket there.
It will not idle on its own without your foot on the pedal and still it just stutters like a burnt valve .
The idle screw is turned all the way in, and the air adjustment has no effect on the idle quality.
Do these things set and idle with your foot off the gas like a car or do they stop when you let off the gas? My Governor is still hooked up, I think the throttle works fine , it has response just sputters and dies if you are not moving quickly, and seems always to be missing always.
Any help would be appreciated, My Granddaughter and her dogs would appreciate it.
BTW , I am a retired mechanic had my own garage for 30 years, but this is the first gas cart I ever worked on.,
It looks like fun.
Ron

[smallblock450sl]

Sounds like your a good mechanic. No golf carts do not idle (unless you have a Big Block). If you push on the accelerator will it turn over and fire up? Does it spit and sputter as you drive it? Welcome to the site.

[Ronniet]

Thank you for the welcome, I have read your site for over a month.
I had been contemplating the repair before hand, and I have downloaded some manuals for the site that is very helpful with my cable and switch replacement.
Yes it sputters as you drive it, the best way to describe it is a 2 cyl. just hitting on 1.
It does not leak gas, it does not smell gassy and there is no smoke of any kind , no oil past or present in the air cleaner box, even though the crankcase hose to the air box has quite a bit of blow while it is running.
Cant get used to it dying when you stop? maybe if it were running better I would get the feel of it.
I guess I need a direction to go ?
thank you
Ron

[crash12888]

I had a G16 that I had the same issue with, I ended up lowering the float (below level) to reduce the amount of fuel in the bowl to get it to clear up.
Have you done a compression test on it? Might have a piece of carbon stuck on a valve face or a slight burn on one?

Does slight choke help or make it worse?
Low speed air/fuel mix screw should be at 1 1/2 turns out to get it started and then adjusted to fine tune it.

[Ronniet]

Cant reduce the float level, it is plastic and I believe fixed.
It is level when inverted. One of the legs is broken off and the pin is secure right now so I have not tried to punch it out.
Have not done a comp test on it yet, didnt know what psi to look for.
In one revolution or 2 or 3?
Maybe some carbon or burnt valve, but why being a 1 cyl would it even start?
Choke does not really help, I cannot tell any difference but will try driving it with it choked. No the idle and air mixture makes no difference on any idle quality or rpm.
Ron

[Ronniet]

I have torn down the carb on this G16 now for the 3rd time. Now went thru it
totally with cleaner and air to check all passages.
I have a few questions.
On the machined part that goes down thru the float that houses the threaded jets, the main Nozzle area, it is clean and all passages are clean but it is missing the main jet that screws to the side of this aluminum housing.
I am using the parts manual posted on the sticky as a reference to these parts.
Now I have a question that probably only hard core Carb men will know.
There is a casted hole in this carb that is atmospherically open that goes into the float area.
This hole is 180 degrees away from the threaded screw hole that holds the accelerator bracket on, located in the parts manual as screw # 20 and washer #21.

http://yamahagolfcar.com/partsandservice/#

The hole is not threaded and is directly opposite this screw and washer and is open ended into the fuel bowl.
Is that correct? Or should this be plugged with a cap or?
Like I said this carb had been worked on because the tamper proof air adjustment was gone and one leg of the float pin holder is broken off. But this time during the inspection I did carefully remove the pin to clean the needle area and check it and after reinstallation the pin still remains tight so I don't think there is a problem there, but the missing main jet is and possibly the open ended hole to the fuel bowl may be also.
Does anyone have a carb handy to check?
I do not have an extra one to use as a reference.
I would need to know where to find a main jet?
Thank you
Ron

[crash12888]

Don't have one at the house but could possibly be where the vent hose barb was once installed, Do you see a 1/8" dia X 1/2" long brass barb or tube sticking out anywhere else?
That would be your bowl vent.

[Flintrock]

Yep, it's where a 90 degree vent tube should be. Here's a pic. I've got a spare carb if you want it. I'll send you a PM.

[ace_ripper]

You may want to check your coil (igniter). I had a G9 recently that sputtered, coughed and occasionally backfired through the exhaust. I rebuilt the head because the valves were in bad shape. This did not fix the issue.

As a last ditch effort I replaced the coil and that did the trick. This was a stroke of luck fix as I had tested for spark with the plug many times and it looked good and strong.

You can bench test with a multimeter if you can find the factory specs on what the ohm readings should be. Be sure to check the primary and secondary windings.
Here's an article I found after the fact:
http://autorepair.about.com/od/troub...l-test-ohm.htm

[jonesey045]

I buy alot of parts from 3rsalesandservice.com. I purchased my Jake's power kit from them. The kit came with a new carb jet. I know they sell oem carb parts also. I have dealt with Justin there a few times. They have been great to deal with.