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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
07-20-2010, 04:23 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 9
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Testing for a bad solenoid/reed switch
Okay... '98 TXT. I replaced the inductor coil for the accelerator. After that, I only got a solenoid 'click' when depressing the pedal with no movement. After a couple of "friends" tried to fix the cart by shorting across the solenoid leads, I even lost the solenoid click. I later found that my original problem was that I had missed a spade connector connection in the accelerator box. Replaced the lead with still no movement. I have found that if I jump from B+ to either the red lead on the solenoid, or any lead at the F/R micros, I get movement and everything seems to be fine! Also, I get about 1/2 volt difference from the battery leads at the solenoid. Any ideas or should I just chance replacing the solenoid?
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07-20-2010, 08:28 PM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 2,757
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Re: Testing for a bad solenoid/reed switch
Here is the solenoid activation circuit. Test each place along the circuit to see where you are losing power at:
TXT solenoid activation Power starts on the White wire on the 36+ of the battery pack. Power travels to the charger receptacle, goes through a reed switch inside the receptacle and comes out on the red 12 gauge red wire. ( check for power here, 1st!) The red wire travels back through the loom to the Forward and reverse switch where it attaches to a micro. The other side of that micro has a blue wire attached that runs under the cart to the front and arrives at the keyswitch. The keyswitch then transfers power to a green wire which returns to the area of the Forward and Reverse switch. the power then goes through a 4 pin Molex connector and travels to the "pedal Box" (located under the floorboard of the car) where it goes through a micro and comes out on another red wire. That red wire comes back up to the Controller/F&R area where it once again goes through the 4 pin molex connector and continues on to the small post of the solenoid. |
07-20-2010, 09:32 PM | #3 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,419
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Re: Testing for a bad solenoid/reed switch
Pssst ......copy and save that, there's going to be a test on it later
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07-20-2010, 09:38 PM | #4 | |
Stay thirsty my friends!
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Suburban Chicago
Posts: 24,291
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Re: Testing for a bad solenoid/reed switch
Quote:
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07-20-2010, 09:39 PM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 2,757
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Re: Testing for a bad solenoid/reed switch
yes, please do... I keep having to go back and find previous posts because I can never remember where I saved it on my hard drive lmao......
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07-20-2010, 09:43 PM | #6 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,419
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Re: Testing for a bad solenoid/reed switch
There's a notebook in the user cp Fill it full of the chit you have to post and post and post .....
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07-20-2010, 10:01 PM | #7 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 2,757
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Re: Testing for a bad solenoid/reed switch
thanks, that'll save me a heap of time......
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07-20-2010, 10:25 PM | #8 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,419
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Re: Testing for a bad solenoid/reed switch
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07-22-2010, 08:32 AM | #9 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 9
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Re: Testing for a bad solenoid/reed switch
Thanks for the help. Surely I can get it from here!
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06-18-2018, 08:03 PM | #10 | |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 23
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Re: Testing for a bad solenoid/reed switch
Quote:
I’m not getting 36v from the reed, more like 6ish... is this right? I need to follow this to the FR and Ignition yet but not sure what voltage should be... great write up, just what I was looking for! |
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Tags |
reed, solenoid |
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