1996 DCS--Solenoid Clicks Won't Move

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Rob C

.................Voltage across all batteries is 37.9 (It has brand new T-105s)......................

New batteries need to be fully charged prior to first use. 37.9 is 90%.
Go to Scotty's website and read everything in the top left menu with "Battery" in the title.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/

[Rob C]

I did plug the charger in overnight to charge the new batteries. The charger had turned off by the morning and then I took the reading.

I will drive the cart to discharge the batteries and recharge them as directed in the link you provided......but first I have to get this thing to move.

Do you guys agree that based upon my trouble shooting that I have a solenoid issue? Or could there be more that I'm missing?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Rob C

Okay....so I printed off the trouble shooting guide and went through the tests with my volt meter. Here's what I found.

Voltage across all batteries is 37.9 (It has brand new T-105s)

Ten Pin Connector Troubleshooting
Test #1-At controller B+ check for ref. battery voltage==>37.9
Test #2-At Pin 10 Ref battery voltage-If not check wiring and Run / Tow Maint switch==>37.7
Test #3-At Pin 9 Ref battery voltage-If not check wiring and Run / Tow Maint switch and interlock switch==>37.7
Test #4-At Pin 5 Depress accelerator pedal-Ref battery voltage-If not check wiring and pedal switch==>36.2 This is a failure, but solenoid clicks, so not a major issue and can be addressed later.
If solenoid clicks go to pins 1 and 2 (My solenoid clicked)
Test #5-Skip
Test #6-Pin 2 14-15 VDC-If not, replace controller==>14.1
Test #7-Pin 1 .4 -1.5 VDC-If not, replace ITS==>.4 Incomplete test - Should be 0.45V to 0.53V when microswitch closes and increase smoothly to above 1.5V as pedal is slowly depressed to floor.

So after completing these tests it appears that everything was where it should be. I assume that dropping from 37.9 down to 37.7 and 36.2 is not that big of a deal? It is telling me that you have some dirty/corroded contacts and/or connections and/or bad wires. Again not an immediate problem and can be addressed later, after cart is running.

Solenoid Testing
I tested the battery side of the solenoid and my reading was ==>37.7
I tested the controller side of the solenoid and my reading was ==>37.7 The trouble shooting guide says "The reading should be 0.1 --3.0 volts less than reference batttery voltage. If the reading is more than 3 volts less than reference battery voltage, the resistor/diode unit is faulty and needs replaced. [B]If the voltage is the same as reference battery voltage replace the solenoid.[B]

I went on to Page E-7 Inductive Throttle Sensor Circuit
#1-Place the pos probe on the red wire terminal of the ten pin connector. The reading should be battery voltage==>37.7
#2-Place the pos probe on the black wire terminal of the ten pin connector. The reading should be slightly above 14 but less than 16.==>14.1
#3-Separate the six pin connector between the pedal box and the controller. If the voltage goes to 14-16 the ITS is faulty and must be replaced. If the voltage remains below 16 or above 16 the controller is faulty and must be replaced.???? I assume since my voltage was 14.1 in test #2 that test #3 is not necessary? This is not really clear in the guide so I'm looking for some guidance on that. Yep - it isn't clear, but if the voltage at pin 2 is between 14 and 16, skip to paragraph #5, which appears to have been overlooked.

Based on the trouble shooting guide I'm assuming that I just need to replace the solenoid. Since the ten pin trouble shooting was all "normal" does this mean that my controller is good? Or could it be that I have a bad solenoid and controller?

Any other tests that I should run? This is not as bad as I thought it would be.....but I don't want to get too excited just yet thinking that it is only the solenoid.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Rob

Sorry that I rattled your cage about charging new Batteries.

Place Run/Tow switch in Tow.
Disconnect BL+ at battery pack.
Disconnect one end of Resistor/diode form either of the solenoid's main terminals. The Diode is polarized, so do take both ends off or there is a possibility of re-installing it backwards.
Measure continuity between main terminals. There should not be any. If there is, the contacts are welded closed.
However, that would make your cart continue to move (creep slowly) with the pedal up, which isn't the problem you are experiencing.

Chances are, as others have suggested, the controller is blown. Suggest an aftermarket one be installed, stock DCS controllers are know for their many failures.

[Rob C]

The troubleshooting shows that I have the same voltage on both the controller side and battery side of my solenoid so I'm going to go ahead and replace the solenoid. My cart is lifted and has 20" tires. I use the cart only on paved roads to run around the neighborhood. With that in mind.....do I need anything more than a 50 amp?

I will also be replacing the controller as everyone on here seems to think that it's blown and now that I've read through these threads it appears that these DCS controllers are known to fail especially when the cart is operated at low voltages....which mine has been multiple times.

After dropping $700 on batteries I'm about tapped on what I can continue to drop into this cart. Are rebuilt controllers any good or do I drop the extra $100 and buy a new one? I know everyone will tell me to buy an aftermarket controller, but do I need more than 300 amp for what I use my cart for?

Any suggestions on the model controller I need and the cheapest place to find one online?

[scottyb]

Your solenoid may not be bad if you did not remove the resistor before the test you will get pre-charge voltage readings..
You do not need more than a stock rebuilt control to operate a stock cart on groomed trails... anything beyond what you see on a golf course will require an upgraded controller, solenoid, and cables.

There are many rebuilders out there, I suggest FSIP. Find a dealer near you

The cheapest controller is going to be as good as the cheapest AM/FM radio you can find. There are alot of ways to cut corners in electronic components.

[Rob C]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MakeTrack=true

Will this work for me?

Which Alltrax controller should be used in my 1996 DCS?

[Legendary Golf Carts]

No that controller is for series carts, you have a DCS. look here, these controllers include a new heavy duty solenoid so you can fix both possible issues.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html
scroll down to DCS carts. I would recommend the 400 amp alltrax.

[Legendary Golf Carts]

Also, stock controllers don't like big tyres, the stock controllers were made for golf course use with 18" tyres. As yours is lifted, I would highly recommend upgrading the controller, even if your controller is good I would still go ahead anyway because the stock controller will die eventually with those wheels.

[Rob C]

Okay....so I've found the controller that I'll be ordering. I'm getting the 400 amp Alltrax DCX400. My cart does have a lift kit and 20" tires but I only use it on the street in my neighborhood so I think the 400 will be adequate. If I do replace my solenoid is there a particular one that I should get since I'm upgrading my controller?

[JohnnieB]

That DCX400 should run those 20" tires around the neighborhood just fine.
Personally, if the solenoid is good, I'd run it until it failed, then upgrade to something a little heavier.