EZGO clicks but no move

[BigDaddyDupree]

I am new here and trying ti figure out my issue. i have a 94 ezgo serial number 823556 and it ran perfect until recently. it has new batteries fully charged and the solenoid just clicks. im showing only 12 volts at the solenoid thought and thats what baffles me. it was parked for a few months and now wont go just clicks. batteries check out good.

[simple man]

You'll definitely need to charge the batteries if the cart has set for 2 months! If you just did charge them, I'd look for a bad connection in your cables. Take each one off ( one at a time ) and clean the battery posts and terminal ends to bright metal and reinstall. Give this a try first and let us know the outcome.

[BigDaddyDupree]

did this. removed all the batteries and charged one by one. reinstalled and the same thing is going on. its got 38 volts coming from the battery pack. the solenoid clicks. thats it. no motor whine

[JohnnieB]

Welcome to BGW.

According to the serial number you posted, your cart is:
Model Year: 1994
Make/Model: Electric Medalist

If you have 38V at the battery pack and 12V at the solenoid, one or more of the following exist:
1. Bad battery or batteries.
2. Bad high current cables or connections.
3. Bad measurements.

Lets start from scratch so we are all on the same page.
Connect DVM black (Minus) lead to BL-, as shown in diagram below.
Connect red lead (Plus) to BL+.
What is voltage (Including tenths - IE: 38.2V for a fully charged pack)
A. Pedal up? (Solenoid open)
B. Pedal depressed slightly? (Solenoid closed)

Let us know what the two reading are and we'll go from there.

[BigDaddyDupree]

it was a bad reading. I have 38 volts at the solenoid on either side once the micro switch is activated. i took the mat up on the floor area and the ITS was laying in its spot not bolted down. my throttle pedal had been stick probably due to this. the resistance across it is 6.7.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by BigDaddyDupree

it was a bad reading. I have 38 volts at the solenoid on either side once the micro switch is activated. i took the mat up on the floor area and the ITS was laying in its spot not bolted down. my throttle pedal had been stick probably due to this. the resistance across it is 6.7.

If it was only the box containing the ITS that's loose, you might be lucky.
If it was the ITS that's loose inside the box, could be an ouch...
Either way it's probably fixable for less than a Benjamen.

6.7 What??? (Milli-Ohms, Ohms, Kilo-Ohms, Mega-Ohms)
Irregardless of the unit of measurement, it sounds like you've got continuity through the ITS Sensor, which is good.
The test for an ITS is measuring the voltage it puts out under specified conditions.

Check out the STICKY:'s at the top of the "Electric EZGO" forum (one level up from where you are now) and you might find a service manual for your cart, or at least something close to it.

The main difference between a Medalist and a TXT is metal vs plastic body, and the drive train of a series cart didn't change much over the years, so a later model TXT service manual might be pretty close.

[BigDaddyDupree]

everything is checking out good on this cart. but there is a ground somewhere between then motor and the controller. If you check battery voltage between m- and b+ it is holding voltage and slowly dropping. ideas?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by BigDaddyDupree

everything is checking out good on this cart.

Except it doesn't run.

If you are getting full battery voltage between B+ and B- terminals on the controller and the correct voltage from the ITS to controller with pedal up and pedal down, between B+ and M-, you ought to be getting about zero with the pedal slightly depressed (just enough to close solenoid) and nearly full battery voltage with pedal down. If not, the controller is most likely bad.

You also might want to check the continuity through motor and D/R switch.
Disconnect B+ cable from battery pack.
Disconnect M- cable at controller.
Measure Ohms between B+ terminal on controller and loose M- cable going to motor. (Be sure B+ is disconnect at Battery pack or your Ohmmeter will be destroyed.)
Should only read a few Ohms. Maybe a hundred or so.
M- cable to frame should read an open.

The weird reading you're getting between B+ and M- might be a capacitor charging through your voltmeter or something like that.
However, you are measuring pulsed DC (PWM) at that point, so your meter might not be reading it accurately.

[BigDaddyDupree]

new findings, i jacked the cart up for shits and giggles. put it in f and the wheels spun like crazy. so i let them spin for a second. put it in reverse n let it run. then i rode it around and it did great as long as i was riding. wouldnt hardly back up though. then i had a burning smell. the controller smelled a burning smell. tell me what ive figured out?

[scottyb]

Based on your last post I would venture a guess that your batteries are bad and possibly the controller is too but, there is no way of knowing without a healthy battery pack to test with..... the burnt smell is a bad sign.