Intermittent drive problem

[slf-uk]

Hi,

I have a 2006 EZGO Workhorse/MPT1000, which is 48v and PDS (determined by following the sticky).

It has an intermittent problem with the drive. Sometimes when you push the go peddle you get three solenoid clicks and it does not move. After trying it a few times it will work as normal, usually I switch it off/on between trying. Once it is working it is possible to stop and start off again without problem and the problem will not reoccur until the ignition key has been switched off/on.

Any ideas or pointers gratefully received.

Thanks
Iain

[slf-uk]

When I did not get any replies to this post I was concerned that I either had a problem that was unbelievably difficult and nobody knew the answer or trivial and everyone thought I should know the answer. Either way I would appreciate some help.

Over the weekend we ended up with the tail end of hurricane Bertha which gave me the chance for some workshop time. I checked all the battery, motor and controller connections which all seemed fine. I then jacked up the back of the buggy and kept trying it until the fault reoccurred.

The buggy is fitted with a SepEx controller which gives fault codes. When it fails it flashes 5-3 which is labelled as “MAIN CONT DNC” and the recommendation is to check all solenoid wiring and replace solenoid if necessary.

I took all the wires off the solenoid and cleaned the connections and wires, which made no difference. With my hand on the body of the solenoid I can feel it switching so I am guessing that it is either not being held closed or one of the switch wires has a problem at its source.

I thought I would start with the throttle peddle because as I found that releasing the peddle and pushing it again would either cause it to drive or produce the fault (solenoid clicking three times and no drive). Does anyone know how you get to the throttle wiring? Do I have to lift the buggy and get to it underneath or through the floor under the mat?

Am I looking in the right direction or should I just replace the solenoid?

Thanks
Iain

[JohnnieB]

A 2006 MPT1000 is not a cart a lot of the people on the forum are familiar with, myself included.

I think it has a Curtis 1264 controller and it sounds like the controller is going bad, but the best I can do is post what I think is a schematic for your cart and tell you that FSIP (one of the BGW site sponsors) sells re-manufactured 1264 controllers.

https://fsip.workxpress.com/page/lin...e1fb58e8&wxm=1

[slf-uk]

JonnieB, thanks for the support.

Do you think I am wasting my time investigating the peddle switch and solenoid as possible solutions to the problem? They would certainly be cheaper to replace.

Thanks
Iain

[JohnnieB]

Investigating isn't a waste of time, but replacing without proving something is good or bad, is often a waste of time and funds.

Sounds like the problem happens often, so measure the voltage across the small terminals on the solenoid. (+ test lead on one small terminal, - test lead on other small terminal)

I the solenoid doesn't click when the controller applies voltage to it, the solenoid is bad.

If the controller does not apply voltage to the small terminals on the solenoid when it is supposed to, either the controller is bad, or the controller is not being told to close the solenoid. (IE: Pedal switch, keyswitch, F/R switch, reed switch or Run/Tow switch could be bad.)

If you can get to the pins on J-1 wile it is plugged into the controller, you can check for voltage at the pins the various switches connect to. If not, you can unplug J-1 and measure between the respective pins that got to/from the various switches with an Ohmmeter.

Be sure to flip Run/Tow switch to Tow before disconnecting or reconnecting any electrical wiring.

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I re-read where you said something about cleaning connections. It was only the solenoid wiring, so clean all the connections to the controller and other stuff.

Unplug the plugs, spray with contact cleaner and plug in several times while still damp.

Don't forget the in-line connector between the controller and pedal box. It causes strange problems when its contacts get dirty.

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Good luck

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Does the 'uk' suffix mean you live on an island about 3,00 mile East-Northeast of me?
I spent a few years at RAF Chicksands.

[slf-uk]

Last night I cleaned the connections to the controller. The schematic was really useful as it helped me get a better understanding of the wiring.

When I un-plugged J-1 I noticed that connection 13 (which comes from the pedal box) has been replaced at some point. It looks like a new connector with a short length of wire has been inserted into the J-1 plug and crimped onto the original wire.

After putting the J-1 plug in several times I can't get the fault to reoccur. The problem with this being an intermittent issue is that I will not really know for a while. I will do some more testing tonight but the real test will be my son at the weekend.

I will get some contact cleaner and do the job properly.

Do you know where the in-line connector between the controller and pedal box is located? The wires from J-1 appear to go into the loom which then appear to disappear underneath the machine.

Yes I am in the UK. I believe RAF Chicksands is in Bedfordshire just a bit west of me, I live in Norfolk (the hump on the east coast).

Thanks for the help
Iain

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by slf-uk

Last night I cleaned the connections to the controller. The schematic was really useful as it helped me get a better understanding of the wiring.

When I un-plugged J-1 I noticed that connection 13 (which comes from the pedal box) has been replaced at some point. It looks like a new connector with a short length of wire has been inserted into the J-1 plug and crimped onto the original wire.

After putting the J-1 plug in several times I can't get the fault to reoccur. The problem with this being an intermittent issue is that I will not really know for a while. I will do some more testing tonight but the real test will be my son at the weekend.

I will get some contact cleaner and do the job properly.

Do you know where the in-line connector between the controller and pedal box is located? The wires from J-1 appear to go into the loom which then appear to disappear underneath the machine.

Yes I am in the UK. I believe RAF Chicksands is in Bedfordshire just a bit west of me, I live in Norfolk (the hump on the east coast).

Thanks for the help
Iain

A crimped connection, sea air and rainy days equals a poor connection. Solder the wire together if possible.

I don't know exactly where the in-line connector is physically located in a MPT1000, however it is in the cable that comes out of the side of the pedal box, so trace that cable until you find it. The cable out of the pedal box is only a couple feet long, so it should be far.

The service manual in the link below isn't for a MPT1000, but it does have information about a 48V PDS system, so you may glean so more insight to the system you have.
http://www.ordertree.com/docs/1047/E...028747-g01.pdf

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Just outside Shefford in Bedfordshire is were RAF Chicksands is at, or at least was. It closed in 1997 and I don't know what it is called now.

I was stationed there in the early '70's and did a lot of sight seeing.

[slf-uk]

I found the in-line connector between the controller and pedal box. I could not believe how small the pins are.

The service manual is great, thanks.

I did an hour of testing last night before the fault appeared. It is possible that it is now less frequent. Tonight I plan to unplug all the connections and spray with contact cleaner. I have a horrible feeling this is going to take a very long time to resolve.

I believe RAF Chicksands is now used by the Army. This may be worth a look http://www.army.mod.uk/intelligence/32259.aspx

Thanks
Iain

[slf-uk]

I may have made some progress...

Last night I pulled the j-1 connector on the controller and the in-line connector for the peddle box and cleaned them with contact cleaner. I also removed the panel holding the run/tow switch so I could see the solenoid and put some tape on the end of the performance plug as it has nothing plugged into it and the connections looked vulnerable.

It still has an intermittent problem but the problem is now different. When the problem occurs I am now getting two solenoid clicks (instead of three) and I get drive even though the controller flashes up the same error code.

I now plan (unless someone has a better idea) to focus on one of the connectors at a time and try to rule it in/out.

Now that I have found the performance plug it would be interesting to know if the connections are the same for all PDS controllers.

Thanks
Iain

[JohnnieB]

If one cannot find what is wrong, the alternative is to eliminate what is right.

I'm not sure if the PDS mode plugs will work with that controller or not, but I don't think so.