2002 pds how to check controller

[oswaldoguerrero]

Bought a golf cart w/ out knowing the history and just replaced the batteries, ignition switch, and forward/reverse switch. I was able to bypass solenoid and motor runs goes faster when the pedal is pressed down. Not sure what else to test other then the controller. Is there a way to test controller if it is good or bad?

[sportcoupe]

If cart runs by jumpering the solenoid then you may have a problem in the smaller control wiring and or switches.

With cart on jacks for safety, check smaller wires on solenoid for voltage with key on and throttle pushed, if no voltage then apply voltage with jumper wires and see if solenoid clicks. It may be bad.

[scottyb]

I agree. This little solenoid instruction sheet may help.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by oswaldoguerrero

Bought a golf cart w/ out knowing the history and just replaced the batteries, ignition switch, and forward/reverse switch. I was able to bypass solenoid and motor runs goes faster when the pedal is pressed down. Not sure what else to test other then the controller. Is there a way to test controller if it is good or bad?

It is a PDS, so the controller controls the solenoid and according to the information provided, either the solenoid or the solenoid wiring or the controller is bad. (Plus a couple other possibilities)

Hopefully, you placed the Run/Tow switch was in the Tow position before replacing the batteries, keyswitch and F/R switch. Otherwise, the controller may have been damaged, even if it had been working previously.

With all plugs installed and all jumpers removed and with Key ON, Run/Tow in RUN, F/R in F and pedal pushed, you should have full pack voltage on all wires highlighted in red on attached schematic.

If you do, check the voltage on the blue wire on the small solenoid terminal. IF it is pack voltage, the solenoid coil is good and the controller is most likely bad.

[oswaldoguerrero]

checked voltage highlighted red wires.
J1: 1-3, 3 volts less than pack
J1: 8-9, 0 volts
J4: 1-2, 0 volts
J3: 1-2 and 3-4, 0 volts
all other highlighted red wires showed pack voltage.

highlighted blue wires.
J1: 6 to - blue showed pack voltage.
however B- controller to Neg battery pack showed 0 volts.

I was using JohnnieB's wiring diagram.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by oswaldoguerrero

checked voltage highlighted red wires.
J1: 1-3, 3 volts less than pack
J1: 8-9, 0 volts
J4: 1-2, 0 volts
J3: 1-2 and 3-4, 0 volts
all other highlighted red wires showed pack voltage.

highlighted blue wires.
J1: 6 to - blue showed pack voltage.
however B- controller to Neg battery pack showed 0 volts.

I was using JohnnieB's wiring diagram.

Oops, I should have mentioned that all voltages, unless otherwise specified, are referenced to the main negative terminal on the battery pack.

However, you are getting B+ on J1 Pin-6, so we know the Reed switch, Run/Tow switch, Key switch, F/R switch and solenoid coil are good. That leaves checking for B+ on J4 Pin-1 and J4 Pin-2 (Pedal switch).

If you have them, the controller is being told to activate the solenoid (Apply B- to J1 Pin-6) and if it isn't doing it, the controller is bad.

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When the negative test lead is connected to the main negative post of the battery pack, it is attached to B-, so the B- terminal on the controller would read zero volts.

[oswaldoguerrero]

B+ to J1 pin 6 shows .6 volts
B+ to J4 pin 1 and 2 shows pack voltage
B- to J1 pin 6 pack voltage

I have read several times about the solenoid makes a "click" noise i have never heard that type of noise come from the solenoid.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by oswaldoguerrero

B+ to J1 pin 6 shows .6 volts
B+ to J4 pin 1 and 2 shows pack voltage
B- to J1 pin 6 pack voltage

I have read several times about the solenoid makes a "click" noise i have never heard that type of noise come from the solenoid.

You aren't hearing the solenoid click because a PDS controller controls the solenoid and the controller is bad.

Making the solenoid click is a two step process in a PDS cart. (Other drive systems work differently.)

First: To get B+ (Battery Positive) to one side of the solenoid coil, the contacts in the Reef switch, Run/Tow switch, Key switch have to be closed along with one set of the two sets of contacts in the F/R switch.

When those conditions exist, B+ is applied to the solenoid coio via J1 Pin-7 (Yellow wire)

Second: If while those conditions exist, the contacts in the Pedal switch are close, than the controller applies B- to the other side of the solenoid coil via J1 Pin-6 (Blue wire), activating the solenoid.

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Other parts of the controller may be functioning, but is one part is bad , it is all bad and has to be replaced.

Replace the stock PDS controller with an Alltrax DCX400 (or larger) controller and your cart will have a top speed in the low to mid 20's with a 36V battery pack and stock height (18") tires.

[oswaldoguerrero]

Thanks JohnnieB and others for all the help. i am shopping around now for the best price on controller.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by oswaldoguerrero

Thanks JohnnieB and others for all the help. i am shopping around now for the best price on controller.

Be sure to replace the solenoid also.
Check out the controller/solenoid kits sold here: http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html