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Old 09-21-2014, 10:04 AM   #1
Mmitchell0077
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Default 01 36v txt Series B+ melted. What else is fried?

Ok. I have an 01 EzGo txt (c101) that was a project from the start. when I purca the cart I had to replace the front axel, wheels/tires, batteries, front support for the top, and the entire plastic body. The cart looked like a new one now but I've had to tinker with it since ownership ( about 4/5 weeks ago). To start off with, the cart would intermittently surge and loose about half of its power randomly while driving. I cleaned & tightened all connections in accelerator box where the ITS & micro switch are. Everything was good after that, except a loud whining noise that continusiouly came from the motor vicinity while driving in forward mostly (which has always been present since I've owned it). Well I decided to "play" in a small clay pit about a half mile from my house after a good inch or two of rain recently . I didn't "think" I'd have a problem after a friend drove thru the same area on a similar cart with smaller less aggressive tires than mine. After getting somewhat stuck I tried to work the cart out of the Mud rocking it back n forth using front and reverse with my foot on accelerator (wot) the entire time. I thought I smelled some electrical smoke so decided to clean some clay off tires (it was caked on about an inch or two all the way around the 23" tire). After about 10/15 minutes of cleaning the tires I planned on giving it another try but the cart would NOT move. . The only way I could get it back home was by towing the cart the half mile or so behind my truck. When we got back to the house the fella steering the cart for me said the tires almost seemed locked up... They were rolling but only about HALF THE SPEED I WAS TOWING IT!! Hopefully no flat spots in brand new 23" tires!!

I've since tinkered around w it the past few afternoons testing components and troubleshooting the problem with NO LUCK
Ok, now... I'm not an electrical engineer by any means and could be doing some of the testing incorrectly.

•The soleniod does "click" and "tested" to be good.
•The reed switch has already been bypassed.
•I replaced the stock controller with one I borrowed from a buddy that he uses to test carts. It is an alltrax 400 amp I believe. However he said when it gets hot you must tap/beat on the cover to make it continue working. Lol so REALLY I'm not 100% that it's STILL NOT THE CULPRIT.
•I have 38.0+- volts on pack
•when I tested continuity of (stock) motor from A1 to A2 and s1 to S2 both read something near 1.6 or 1.7. I can't remember exactly but it was more than one and less than 2. IS THIS CORRECT NUMBERS FOR THIS? IS THE MOTOR OK??

THE CART IS STILL A BOAT ANCHOR at this point. Dead weight. After all the testing and switching the controller i still cannot seem to diagnose the problem and the cart still will NOT move under its own power. I'm out of ideas so I figured someone would be able to help me figure this thing out. PLEEEEASE HEELLPPP! Thank you in advance! MATT
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Old 09-21-2014, 10:43 AM   #2
JohnnieB
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Default Re: 01 36v txt Series B+ melted. What else is fried?

If shifting between F & R with foot on floor while an electric cart is stuck, isn't absolutely the worst thing possible to do, it comes in a close second.

You mentioned the motor had S1 & S2 terminals and it is a 2001 TXT, so my guess is that it is a series wound motor, which means the high current contacts in the F/R switch might have been arcing as it was being shifted between F and R, so that is a the most likely suspect.

BTW: The 23" tire cost you about 22% of the stock torque where the rubber meets the road (or wet clay), so your friend's cart with the smaller tires can go place your cart cannot.

As for the tires only turning about half as fast as the cart was being towed, try pushing the cart by hand on hard level surface. It weighs half a ton, so it takes some effort to get it moving, but once it is moving it shouldn't take much effort to keep it moving. Listen for bad bearings and dragging brake shoes as well as expensive sound coming from differential.
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Old 09-21-2014, 12:39 PM   #3
Mmitchell0077
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Default Re: 01 36v txt Series B+ melted. What else is fried?

I forgot to mention that the B+ wire that melted recently was only 8 or 10 guage. I planned on replacing it but I guess I waited too long. I now have replaced that wire along with some other smaller wires it burnt at that time.
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Old 09-21-2014, 12:45 PM   #4
Mmitchell0077
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Default Re: 01 36v txt Series B+ melted. What else is fried?

Ok. How should I go about checking the f/r switch? Or are there any suggestions as to what I should do now? The rear breaks may be sticking? I've got it on jack stands and the tires will "roll" when I turn them by hand. I can hear breaks dragging slightly but sounds like just a little dirt. . I plan on eventually upgrading the cart to turn the tires better but after buying it new batteries and wheels/tires I need to save up a bit before I spend much more on it.

Thank you for the reply!
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Old 09-21-2014, 02:21 PM   #5
JohnnieB
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Default Re: 01 36v txt Series B+ melted. What else is fried?

The solenoid clicks, so it is a high current problem.

While on jackstands, connect your DVM between the controller's B- and M- terminals.

With Key On and F/R in F, push pedal just far enough for solenoid to click.
You should read full battery pack voltage.

If not, follow the high current cabling back to the main positive terminal on the battery pack using the attached schematic.

Hint: All four cables on F/R should have pack voltage on them.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Wiring Diagram - Series- Hi-Current traced.JPG (59.3 KB, 0 views)
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Old 09-21-2014, 07:55 PM   #6
Mmitchell0077
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Default Re: 01 36v txt Series B+ melted. What else is fried?

Ok. So After my last post I wanted to inspect the F/R. I took it off the cart and noticed one of the small ??? Micro switches?? On the top was not reaching its limit and clicking like the other when it rolled into the valley of the front side of the F/R component. I adjusted the metal arm with wheel on it so that it would engage and disengage when going into or out of the valleys. ( I had not seen your reply at that time. Hopefully I did not mess up too badly) after reassembly, still nothing had changed except that the ALLTRAX controller light no longer lit up yellow when WOT. UH OHH I said!! now after following your direction I tested B- & M- voltage with key on and f/r in F. DVM read pack voltage BOTH when soleniod engaged and not engaged. It showed 38v with & without touching accelerator. I did have pack voltage on all 4 cables on f/r switch though. I hope I haven't added more fuel to fire messing with fr switch. I suspect I may not have the dial turned correctly on fr switch?? Or the ?? Micro switch?? Was correct before I adjusted it?? Its just my thoughts though. If I knew what I was talking about I wouldn't be asking for help. Thank you again for your time and consideration. I'll wait to hear back before I mess with it again.
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Old 09-22-2014, 07:38 AM   #7
JohnnieB
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Default Re: 01 36v txt Series B+ melted. What else is fried?

The F/R switch assembly does three things.
1. The stationary and moveable high current contacts change the direction of current flow through the motors stator windings, causing it to spin either CW or CCW so the cart will go forward or backwards.
2. One of the two microswitches is part of a series loop that energizes the solenoid. Its NC contacts have to be closed when F/R lever is in F or R for the solenoid to activate.
3. The NC contacts of the other microswitch are only closed when F/R lever is in R. This sounds the reverse beeper and puts the controller in the half-speed reverse mode. Cart will run without this switch working.

For safety reasons, EZGO uses the NC (Normally Closed) contacts in the microswitches installed in their carts. That means the contacts are closed when no pressure is being applied to the lever arm on the switch.

There is a 250 Ohm resistor connected across the solenoid's large terminals (high current contacts), so you will read pack voltage when the contacts are closed and slightly less when they are open. If the reading is exactly the same, the solenoid's high current contacts are welded closed. However, if there arem the cart will either run, or you will get an error code (Flashing Red LED) on the Alltrax controller.

---------------
Okay, back to troubleshooting.
The solenoid clicks and you read pack voltage between the controller's B- and M- terminals.

Push the pedal to the floor and the voltage should decrease to zero.
If not, either the controller or the ITS is bad.
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Old 09-22-2014, 07:51 AM   #8
Mmitchell0077
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Default Re: 01 36v txt Series B+ melted. What else is fried?

Should the plunger for ITS s sensor be touching the inside of the cylinder at all? I noticed it seems to be slightly bent causing it to rub...
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Old 09-22-2014, 08:26 AM   #9
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Default Re: 01 36v txt Series B+ melted. What else is fried?

There is a polymer lining inside the tunnel, so rubbing shouldn't be an issue unless the lining is worn through.

If the voltage between B- and M- did not decrease to zero when pedal was pushed, measure the voltage between the Black and White wire in the plug on top of the Alltrax controller, while it is plugged in.
Pedal up it should be 10V.
Pedal down it should be 6V.

If you get those voltages and the voltage between B- and M- is not decreasing to zero when pedal is on floor, the controller is bad.
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