1996 ez go txt DCS Regen motor motor won't spin

[trenton.doucet@yahoo.com]

Motor wont spin unless I spin tires by hand. Motors have been checked by repair shop and told they are good. The A2 A1 wire just heat up. I have replaced the solenoid and am in the middle of testing via the flow chart in the service manual.
1: Is "reference voltage" always 36V when referred to by the flow chart.
2: Not sure how to check the A B C and D points on the direction control switch discussed in the service manual.
3: I do not find the reverse diode in the direction control switch.

Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. Novice cart owner as I am sure you can tell.

[JohnnieB]

Welcome to BGW!

1. The reference voltage is your pack voltage that you measured just prior to troubleshooting. For a fully charged 36V battery pack it will be about 38.2V, but batteries are not always fully charged, so it might be lower. However, a 36V battery pack with a 36.0V reading is only 50% charged, so the pack ought to be charged before continuing troubleshooting.

2. The are no A, B, C and D test points in a DCS cart. You may be looking at the wrong troubleshooting tree. See attached DCS T-Shooting chart.

3. The F/R switch assembly on later production models of the DCS didn't have a diode. The difference is mechanical, so either schematic can be used for troubleshooting purposes.

Later model DCS schematic attached.
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What service manual are you using?

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Does the solenoid click?
If so, the problem in in the high current circuit.
If not, the problem is in the solenoid activation circuit.

[trenton.doucet@yahoo.com]

The solienod does click. From all the checks I've done, it appears to me that the controller is faulty.

[trenton.doucet@yahoo.com]

Is it worth buying a rebuilt controller if I intend to lift the golf cart and put 24" tires. This is for looks, the cart will be used around the house on flat terrain. Is this too much extra load on the machine and should I invest in an upgraded motor and controller setup?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by trenton.doucet@yahoo.com

Is it worth buying a rebuilt controller if I intend to lift the golf cart and put 24" tires. This is for looks, the cart will be used around the house on flat terrain. Is this too much extra load on the machine and should I invest in an upgraded motor and controller setup?

It is not worth buy another DCS controller, new, rebuilt or otherwise. Even if somebody paid you to take one, it probably wouldn't turn 24" tires for more than a mile or so before the magic smoke escaped from it.

To turn 24" tires, you'll need a motor with far more torque and a controller capable of delivering the amps it will require to generate the needed torque, as well as cables and solenoid to match.

The 6" increase in tire height (stock is 18") will cost you 25% of the torque available where rubber meets road, so you will have to find 25% more torque just to break even.

Vanity is expensive.
To run 24" tires, your cart will need a complete make-over of the electrical drive system.

There is a pretty good writeup about the things that need to be taken into consideration when building a cart: http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html

A good starting point would be figuring out what motor to use and then figuring out the amps delivery system needed to feed it.
Consult with D&D motors: http://www.ddmotorsystems.com/ and Plum Quick: http://www.plumquick.com/ for help selecting a motor.

[scottyb]

The stock controller was so bad in these carts that they literally all blew the controller sooner or later. Most of them smoked the control when the pack charge got very low.
Despite these problems, when fitted with a good aftermarket Alltrax control this is a great little cart, with more torque than a PDS and more speed than a series cart. Check out controller pkg #505DCS on our website.



Link below.