2001 EZ-Go Clicks but wont go

[ebmyrick]

Hello gents I am new here but have been working on my own cart for a while. I have a 2001 ez-go DCS system. I was driving up a hill, the cart shuddered and then stopped. Now when I press pedal the solenoid clicks but I have no movement. I have cleaned all terminals, charged batteries and have 38.6 pack voltage to both sides of solenoid and to controller. I have read some threads and when pedal is pressed to floor I don't have voltage drop on controller. Any help diagnosing would be greatly appreciated.

thanks guys!

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by ebmyrick

Hello gents I am new here but have been working on my own cart for a while. I have a 2001 ez-go DCS system. I was driving up a hill, the cart shuddered and then stopped. Now when I press pedal the solenoid clicks but I have no movement. I have cleaned all terminals, charged batteries and have 38.6 pack voltage to both sides of solenoid and to controller. I have read some threads and when pedal is pressed to floor I don't have voltage drop on controller. Any help diagnosing would be greatly appreciated.

thanks guys!

One of the first troubleshooting steps is to identify which drive system the cart has and EZGO didn't use the DCS drive system in 2001 carts.

If it is truly a 2001 and the F/R selector is by the keyswitch on the dashboard, it is a PDS.

In any case, measure the voltage between the B- and M- terminals on the controller (M- is labeled A1 on PDS controllers)

Press pedal just far enough for solenoid to click and you should get full pack voltage (38.x volts)

If you don't, there is an open in the high current circuit someplace.

If you do, press pedal to floor and the voltage between B- and M- should decrease to zero.

If it doesn't, check the ITS voltage to the controller.

[ebmyrick]

I'm sorry I must have the year wrong because I definitely have a DCS. The f/r switch is by your leg and it has the controller box with run/tow switch. I have full pack voltage when pedal is just far enough for solenoid to click, so I need to check ITS voltage...... What voltage should I have from ITS and is there a way to check that without getting to the pedal box???????

again thanks for all the help!

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by ebmyrick

I'm sorry I must have the year wrong because I definitely have a DCS. The f/r switch is by your leg and it has the controller box with run/tow switch. I have full pack voltage when pedal is just far enough for solenoid to click, so I need to check ITS voltage...... What voltage should I have from ITS and is there a way to check that without getting to the pedal box???????

again thanks for all the help!

There were a few early 2000 PDS carts the had the F/R switch by the driver's knee, so the definitive ID is looking at the controller. If it has one 10-pin plug on top, it is a DCS, if it has five separate plug on the front, it is a PDS.

For a DCS controller, the ITS voltages are as follows: (Voltmeter is referenced to battery pack's main negative terminal and positive test lead is inserted into the backside of MOLEX connector on top of controller with 10-pin plug connected to controller)

Black wire (Pin-2) should be slightly more than 14V, but less than 16V.
White wire (Pin-1) should be from 0.45V to 0.53V when the pedal is pushed just far enough for solenoid to click and increase smoothly to above 1.5V as pedal is slowly press to floor.


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[ebmyrick]

First of all many thanks for the help!!!! I put your advice to work and also used the dcs troubleshooting guide in the sticky and in doing the test I found that all the ITS voltages were right in spec and the only thing out of place was the voltage at the solenoid. The battery side of the solenoid had pack voltage and the controller side also had pack voltage. If I read correctly the controller side of the solenoid is supposed the be less than pack voltage. So I am going to replace solenoid as the guide said.

Any suggestions on a replacement solenoid????? Where is the best place to get one??

Thanks again!!!!

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by ebmyrick

First of all many thanks for the help!!!! I put your advice to work and also used the dcs troubleshooting guide in the sticky and in doing the test I found that all the ITS voltages were right in spec and the only thing out of place was the voltage at the solenoid. The battery side of the solenoid had pack voltage and the controller side also had pack voltage. If I read correctly the controller side of the solenoid is supposed the be less than pack voltage. So I am going to replace solenoid as the guide said.

Any suggestions on a replacement solenoid????? Where is the best place to get one??

Thanks again!!!!

If the solenoid is energized (High-current contacts closed), the voltage on both of the large terminal will be the same. When the solenoid is not energized, the battery side large terminal will read full pack voltage and the controller side larger terminal will read a few volts less. The is due to the voltage drop across the pre-charge resistor that is connected between the two large terminals.

If you get the same voltage on both large terminals while the solenoid is energized, the solenoid is good.

[ebmyrick]

Sorry it's been so long but have been busy at work!!!

Anyway.....
Solenoid is good as you said sir. I ran through all the tests on the troubleshootin guide again and everything tests perfectly!!!!

I have read that these controllers are very sensitive to low voltage and I did find during my testing that I had one battery that was no good about an hour after a charge so I replaced the one battery and have six very good batteries now!
So now I guess I'm testing the motor and controller????

Help!!!!! I don't wanna buy something I don't need!

Thanks gents

[JohnnieB]

Attached drawing is how to test the motor.

I'm about 99.9% certain the controller is bad. (IE: Full pack voltage between B- and M- when solenoid clicks, but does not decrease when pedal is pushed to floor and the ITS voltages are correct.)

Don't replace it with a stock DCS controller. They are a failed design.

Get an Alltrax DCX or XCT controller.

[ebmyrick]

Thanks Jonnieb!!! I am off tomorrow so I will test the motor....
what is the best alltrax controller. I saw an alltrax 300 on buggies unlimited that wasn't too bad but I see a lot of guys have 400's. What would you suggest????? or is there someone on the forum that sells them??? I would like to give them the business if I could.

[scottyb]

We sell them but currently out of stock... Do yourself a favor & get the 400 not the 300 amp.