Speed before and after HD F&R or Reversing Contactor upgrades

[offthemap]

Yeah that's exactly what I think is the source of the problem. BUT when I get back from a ride only the cables between my F&R switch and the motor are hot... Im gonna take a better look at the switch tonight.

[offthemap]

I think I may have found my issue with the FNR cables and switch heating up.. two of the lugs on the cables were too close together and I suppose they were arcing. I moved them apart, re-tightened and then went for a good jaunt in 100 degree heat and when I got back there was barely any noticable heat in the cables or switch.

Boom.

But back to one of my original issues.. with a stock motor (series 36v), no brake drag, 400a controller, and properly inflated 22" tires, shouldn't I be running at a top speed more than 14mph on flat ground?

It drops to 8-10 on a hill climb in my neighborhood, too. I was of the understanding that I should get 14mph with 18" tires and even more with the 22"s...

I want to do the PQ Bandit upgrade to give me 20% speed and torque but I want to know that I'm starting out with a platform that is running at least at OEM speeds without any mods at all.

[DaveTM]

Ya know......the "standard" may tell you that you should be getting 14mph, but that is under ideal conditions. I dunno how old your cart is, what the inflation of your tires are, when you last had the "brake dust" and other "brake snot" cleaned out of your drums and had your brakes adjusted so there is no drag, had your bearings greased so you have wonderful spin, plus I don't know how old your existing motor is. I believe as motors age they will have a tendency to drag some as those "sealed for life" bearings are not all they are cracked up to be.

Now, I'm just regurgitating what my B-I-L, who is a Master Mack Mechanic has told me. He will tell you what the spec sheet will say.....but when you put it to the test....it could be better or it could be worse. "Your milage may vary."

Just saying........

[offthemap]

Originally Posted by offthemap

I think I may have found my issue with the FNR cables and switch heating up.. two of the lugs on the cables were too close together and I suppose they were arcing. I moved them apart, re-tightened and then went for a good jaunt in 100 degree heat and when I got back there was barely any noticable heat in the cables or switch.

Boom.

But back to one of my original issues.. with a stock motor (series 36v), no brake drag, 400a controller, and properly inflated 22" tires, shouldn't I be running at a top speed more than 14mph on flat ground?

It drops to 8-10 on a hill climb in my neighborhood, too. I was of the understanding that I should get 14mph with 18" tires and even more with the 22"s...

I want to do the PQ Bandit upgrade to give me 20% speed and torque but I want to know that I'm starting out with a platform that is running at least at OEM speeds without any mods at all.

Originally Posted by DaveTM

Ya know......the "standard" may tell you that you should be getting 14mph, but that is under ideal conditions. I dunno how old your cart is, what the inflation of your tires are, when you last had the "brake dust" and other "brake snot" cleaned out of your drums and had your brakes adjusted so there is no drag, had your bearings greased so you have wonderful spin, plus I don't know how old your existing motor is. I believe as motors age they will have a tendency to drag some as those "sealed for life" bearings are not all they are cracked up to be.

Now, I'm just regurgitating what my B-I-L, who is a Master Mack Mechanic has told me. He will tell you what the spec sheet will say.....but when you put it to the test....it could be better or it could be worse. "Your milage may vary."

Just saying........

My cart is a 1998 and so is the OEM motor (see my sig for all the specs of my cart).

I dunno what else I could say to describe my cart or situation. I guess I'll just spend the extra $1000 or so on upgrades and hope for the best.

[yurtle]

Hook up a laptop to the controller and see if wide open throttle shows up as 100%. Your ITS may need tweaking to tell the controller to go to 100%. Mine did, and I noticed the difference.

[offthemap]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Hook up a laptop to the controller and see if wide open throttle shows up as 100%. Your ITS may need tweaking to tell the controller to go to 100%. Mine did, and I noticed the difference.

Alright, thanks. Thats what the guys at Plum Quick told me to do also. Question on hooking it up to the comp... do I need to remove it from the cart or can I loop the 9v batteries while it's still hooked up?

[scottyb]

In the cart throttle testing should be done with the cart on blocks or remove the M- cable form the control to prevent the wheels from turning.

[offthemap]

Alright, I have it up on blocks right now. Are you saying that I don't need to dis-connect any of the battery cables or even loop the two 9v's in to test the controller?

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by offthemap

Alright, I have it up on blocks right now. Are you saying that I don't need to dis-connect any of the battery cables or even loop the two 9v's in to test the controller?

Yes, 2/9v is for bench programming only.

[offthemap]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Yes, 2/9v is for bench programming only.

Good to know. Thank ya Scottyb