05 TXT PDS Nightmare

[david11690]

I have a 05 PDS which runs some days and some days not. The pack has 38.2v and holds that overnight. Some times when we turn the key on we find a red light at the top of the digital battery pack gauge and when you press the pedal the cart moves. I have also noted when the light is out no clicks from the solenoid and the cart does not move. I noted some times when the red light comes on and then no click at the solenoid and the cart will not move. I have tested the two smaller terminals on the solenoid at that time and found no power across the two but test either side and get power on the + when using the negative post of the battery and get power when using the blue wire and positive post of the battery pack.
I bypassed the switch in the Pedal micro switch but still get the same results. the problem is so intermittent its hard to track down? Any suggestions? Oh yeah, my cart will move forward or backwards when plugged into the charger, is that correct?

[JohnnieB]

No knowing which battery meter you have, I'm not sure what the red light on the battery meter indicates, but it is most likely a separate issue since the battery meter isn't part of the drive system.

The cart moving when the charge is plugged into cart can mean several things.
* The reed switch in the charge receptacle has been bypassed.
* The reed switch isn't working properly
* The plug on the charger's output cable doesn't have a magnet in it.

Again, a separate issue, or a non-issue.

The solenoid activation in a PDS cart is done by the controller and is a two step process.

First, B+ has to be applied to the Yellow wire on one of the two small terminals.
For this to happen, the Run/Tow switch has to be in Run, Keyswitch = ON and the F/R switch in either F or R.
When those conditions exist and the pedal has not been pushed, you will measure pack voltage on both the Yellow and Blue wires.

Second, when the pedal is pushed, the contacts of the pedal switch close, which tells the controller to connect the blue wire to B- and the solenoid now has a complete circuit and the solenoid clicks.

Sounds like the first step is happening when the cart is misbehaving and the solenoid doesn't click. That means the controller isn't being told to energize the solenoid, or it is being told but not doing so.

My guess is the pedal microswitch is bad, or the in-line connector between the pedal box and the controller is bad.

Check the voltage at J4 Pin-1. Should be pack voltage when pedal is pushed.

[david11690]

I do have power at the J4 Pin 1 when the pedal is pressed and just now when doing so with the wheels off the ground the cart runs and then suddenly stopped but I did still have power at J4 Pin 1. IF if measure power across the two small points on the solenoid with the run/tow in run just sitting there i get 0 volts is that correct? I did bypass the micro switch and still have the issue. Also the wire from the pedal box goes directly to the controller without a connector between the pedal box and controller...on my cart.

[JohnnieB]

When measuring the voltage between the two small studs on the solenoid, you will read 0V whenever the solenoid is not energized. There is no difference of potential between those two points unless the controller connects the yellow wire to B+ and the blue wire to B-.

Connect the negative test lead to the B- terminal on the controller and connect the positive test lead to the stud with the yellow wire on it.

Do you still have voltage on the yellow wire when the solenoid drops out and motor stops running?

If you do, the problem is in the blue wire half of the circuit. And since you do have pack voltage on J4 Pin-1, the controller is being told to "Ground" the blue wire and isn't doing what it is being told to do, so the controller is bad.

Note: I'm pretty sure Pin-2 is the voltage source from the controller to the pedal switch and Pin-1 is the switch return to the controller, but verify to be sure. Might be wired different on your cart.

If the controller turns out to be bad, replace it with an Alltrax XCT.

[david11690]

Appears to be the controller so thank you for the guidance and will be looking into a new controller. All I do is fly around my golf course so do I need an alltrax or just a reman controller?

[usgicollector]

Unless money is a major factor for you remanufactured and used controller aren't recommended.

You never know what your getting if you go that route.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by usgicollector

Unless money is a major factor for you remanufactured and used controller aren't recommended.

You never know what your getting if you go that route.

You know exactly what you are getting - you are getting a repaired 10 yr old electronic device that has previously failed and will fail again soon. In my experience this is a poor investment for an owner. 2 of these repairs and you could have purchased a new aftermarket control and solenoid with 2 yr warranty which will give 30% more torque and 24 mph top speed.

[david11690]

Any suggestions on supplier with the best prices? I am willing to spend the money to get a good controller that will last a long time and have a good warranty. Based on the reviews of past post I thinking I would like a 400amp controller. So any suggestions for a guy that wants to move around the golf course fast and has hills would be greatly appreciated.

[scottyb]

Gee - I dunno ?

Here you can read about what's needed and why. Then find the lowest prices on Controller and solenoid combos.

You are looking for the XCT400PDS under Sepex Controls

[david11690]

Well I have printed out the schematic for the power supply when the pedal is depressed and it appears I have power at every point. But I still can not get the cart to move. I have another controller which is supposed to be good known controller but it does not get the cart to move? It seems to be getting worse as I was able to drive it a little while but now nothing. Used to be a daily course driver but nothing? HMMMMM