Another RXV Reducer Question

[downsouth864]

Obligatory long time lurker, first time poster.

I have a 2016 RXV that I am adding a reducer to run LEDs and a bluetooth speaker system. On my old CC DS I had my reducer hot all the time. I now know that is bad and I want to run it through a switch BUT NOT the key. In the evenings we cruise down to a riverbank near the house and watch the sunset. We like listening to the music and my son likes playing with the LEDs. I dont want the key switch on as he is only 3 and doesnt quite get the connection between stepping on that pedal and the cart blasting off. I am putting in a bank of rockers over the dash cubby above the cup holders and would like a main "12V Power" rocker switch that kills the 48v side of the reducer. I did car audio for a long time and am better than average with relays and 12v but cannot figure a good way to do this. I can get a HD toggle, but dont like the look. I have searched here and other cart related pages and cant find what I need and surely someone has already burned this bridge and I should poll the audience.

Thanks for any helpful tips that you can offer, and yes I know that it would be significantly easier to use the switched side of the solenoid. My life isnt easy, but I can deal with that!

Downsouth

[Chevota Guy]

You can use an automotive type switch to switch a 48V relay on the low current coil side of the relay to manually switch the voltage reducer as shown below. That way it will be independent of the key switch and separate from the RXV wiring harness.

I have mine switched via the solenoid, but the key must be on for any accessories to work which is not what you want to do.

Be sure to fuse as needed. The coil side draws little current so many 12v switches will work fine, just check specs.

[downsouth864]

Chevota - that is awesome, thank you. My concern was with pushing 48v through a 12v switch. You think it will handle it?

[Chevota Guy]

Originally Posted by downsouth864

Chevota - that is awesome, thank you. My concern was with pushing 48v through a 12v switch. You think it will handle it?

On my JD2912 relay, the coil side only draws 38 milliamps at 48V. It is obviously a different story if your accessories were going through the switch, however in this case your relay is the accessory switch.

[downsouth864]

I appreciate the fast response. I ordered a couple extra switches and am going to try it our on a cheap one before I try the $13 one just in case. Thanks again dude

[Chevota Guy]

I believe many of the automotive style switches that are rated for 12v/24v operation are limited by the LED illumination indicator function in the switch itself. I would avoid any type of self illuminating switches for the relay trigger switch.

[downsouth864]

Thanks again for the help. I did use a lighted switch, but only the top LED that illuminatres when the switch is "on". I fed it off the reducer output and it works like a champ. I wasnt able to feed the bottom light that would normally be on all the time (fed off the input to the switch) but that doesnt bother me, I like them off when not used. I used a 3amp fuse on the 48V + and am good to go.

Thanks!

[Chevota Guy]

Originally Posted by downsouth864

Thanks again for the help. I did use a lighted switch, but only the top LED that illuminatres when the switch is "on". I fed it off the reducer output and it works like a champ. I wasnt able to feed the bottom light that would normally be on all the time (fed off the input to the switch) but that doesnt bother me, I like them off when not used. I used a 3amp fuse on the 48V + and am good to go.

Thanks!

Glad it worked out. Looks great