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Old 03-19-2013, 09:27 PM   #1
meisdug
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Virginia
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Default 95cc starting, running, microswitch issues

Hi, I've got a puzzling problem with my club car. It's a 95 with a FE290 engine. When I barely hit the gas pedal, it turns over, but won't start. I've found that the two micro-switches beside the solenoid engage at a slightly different time. When the pedal is being pressed the top switch comes out and engages just before the bottom switch.

(I'm using the terms in and out because I'm not sure if the micro-switches open or close the circuits. Both switches out is the normal run position.)

If I continue pressing the pedal down the bottom switch comes out and I can hear the solenoid click off. It clicks on as soon as the top switch engages.

However, though it won't turn over with both switches out, the engine will fire and run normally. I found this by holding the pedal at that mid point where it will turn over, then pressing further down so both switches are out. The momentum of the spinning engine is just enough so sometimes it will fire. When it does, it starts and runs great. Except, there is no charging, which is reasonable because I can hear the solenoid click off once that bottom switch is out.

This is kind of a hard problem to explain....I hope that made sense.

Can anyone offer any suggestions as to what might be wrong?
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Old 03-20-2013, 05:46 AM   #2
lockman1
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Default Re: 95cc starting, running, microswitch issues

Your doing this testing with the cart in gear, or in maintenance mode... right?

Here's a quick run-down of those micro's:
They're supposed to engage at slightly different times, because they work opposite and independent from each other!

The bottom micro is the engine kill circuit, when the go pedal is released, it stops power going to the coil, and shuts the engine off.

The top micro is the energize(?) circuit, It supplies power to the solenoid/charge circuit when the go pedal is pressed.
(It's also tied in series to one of the micro's on the back of the FNR shifter so the engine won't start in neutral.... a safety feature)

It sounds as if they're working as they should, and your problem may be elsewhere,
but it wouldn't hurt to test their continuity (ohms) with a multimeter to confirm that they're good!

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