Solenoid help

[keara115]

Ok I FIGURED OUT MY YELLOW WIRE ISSUE BUT STILL can't get the cart to move, unless I'm pushing it! My question is for a simple way to test for solenoid continuity or to know if it is bad. The voltage appears to be the same on both large posts of the solenoid and meter is zero on continuity but should I look at continuity with the B- off of the battery or not? What other tests rule out the solenoid.

[JohnnieB]

When checking continuity, remove the wires from the solenoid terminals.

When you say: "meter is zero on continuity", do you mean the meter reads -0- Ohms or that it reads Infinite Ohms?

With the Diode/Resistor assembly installed on a DCS solenoid, you should read about a 3V difference between the large posts if the solenoid is de-energized.

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To get the solenoid to click on a DCS cart, it has to be armed and it has to be triggered.
It is armed (B+ applied) via the Reed switch, Run/Tow switch, FNR switch and the keyswitch.
It is triggered by the pedal switch applying B+ to Pin-5 on controller and tell the controller to apply B- on Pin-7, which is connected to other side of solenoid coil.

[keara115]

Thank you sir. Will do the testing.

[keara115]

Mr. JohnnieB, if I don't get a variance between posts is the solenoid dead. And the continuity meter shows 0.

[JohnnieB]

Please get rid of the continuity meter...........We want voltage readings at this stage of the game.

Take all the Resistors and Diodes off the solenoid and leave the wires and cables on.

Now you should read battery voltage on one large terminal and zero on the other large terminal when the solenoid is de-energized.
When the solenoid is energized (after it clicks), you should read the same voltage (battery voltage) on both large posts.

As for the solenoid's small terminals.
With the Run/Tow in Run, Key ON and F/R in F, you should have Battery voltage on BOTH small terminals, until you press the pedal.

When you press the pedal, then one of the small terminals will go to "ground" (B-) and solenoid should click.