Jerky Ride

[oldboyblue]

Originally Posted by Cartmaster

That is the gear selector cable. The throttle/governor cable is underneath the black metal plate on top of the axle. it is held on with pop rivets that would need drilling out to gain access to the cables. As the plate looks like it has never been removed, i doubt if the governor has been messed with.

Have you actually tried slowly pushing the pedal and listening for the switch activating before the throttle starts to open? and making sure that the throttle is actually fully closed when the pedal is up? if all this is correct then you will not need to get to the cables yet as your problem is likely elsewhere.

It is fully open when I took the cover off. I presume I will need to get by that black plate to adjust the throttle cable?

The hose you see is a new one I had ordered a while ago but was unsure how to get to it until now. It seemed to help going uphill and in general too.

The butterfly also didn't move at all when I pushed the pedal down to the floor.

Total newbie I know. Thank you again for all your patience and explanations.



Sent from my LGLS676 using Tapatalk

[Cartmaster]

Ok, lets see what we have here. The cable you can see easily is the choke control. This operates the choke butterfly that will be open until you pull the choke button by your knees. the other cable that comes up fron underneath is the governor link cable. try pushing the pedal again and watch the end of the hidden cable, you should see movement at the carb and this will be controlling the throttle butterfly which is further inside the carb. you may need to get your head down there to see it or use a mirror. You will be looking for it to be fully closed with pedal up and fuly open with pedal down. once the machine is running and the cart get up to 12 - 14 mph that cable is pulled back by the governor on the back axle to control your speed which is where the cable from the pedal attaches. You can if you wish drill out the rivets holding the black plate on and remove the plate. It is only there to stop golfers tampering with the speed control and you dont really need it on a privately owned cart. When this is removed you will see both cables and should be able to work out how it all operates.

Back to your issue. remember, listen for a light click under the floor by the pedal when you slowly push the pedal (ignition off) while watching the throttle butterfly or external control arm (after making sure that the butterfly is fully closed before you start.) If the click is heard before the butterfly starts opening, then your problem is elsewhere. If the butterfly opens before the click, then thats your problem. You will need to adjust the cable that comes from the governor to the carb. Come back here with your results before attempting any adjustment as it can go very wrong if you dont know what you are doing.

So. before doing anything else.

Ignition off,

choke button fully IN

look into the carb throat for the second butterfly plate

slowly push the pedal while listening for a light click

watch the butterfly.

Click first then butterfly movement, all there is fine

Butterfly moves then you hear the click, adjustment is required.

come back here for instruction.

simples!

If you struggle to hear the click, pull the wires from the spark plugs and turn the ignition on. The starter will spin the engine the moment the switch clicks but the cart will not start, so you can do the same test.

If you do everything in the exact order described, then we can move on to the next stage.

Remember. Before doing anything, you MUST make sure that the choke butterfly is fully open and the throttle butterfly is fully closed.

[oldboyblue]

Originally Posted by Cartmaster

Ok, lets see what we have here. The cable you can see easily is the choke control. This operates the choke butterfly that will be open until you pull the choke button by your knees. the other cable that comes up fron underneath is the governor link cable. try pushing the pedal again and watch the end of the hidden cable, you should see movement at the carb and this will be controlling the throttle butterfly which is further inside the carb. you may need to get your head down there to see it or use a mirror. You will be looking for it to be fully closed with pedal up and fuly open with pedal down. once the machine is running and the cart get up to 12 - 14 mph that cable is pulled back by the governor on the back axle to control your speed which is where the cable from the pedal attaches. You can if you wish drill out the rivets holding the black plate on and remove the plate. It is only there to stop golfers tampering with the speed control and you dont really need it on a privately owned cart. When this is removed you will see both cables and should be able to work out how it all operates.

Back to your issue. remember, listen for a light click under the floor by the pedal when you slowly push the pedal (ignition off) while watching the throttle butterfly or external control arm (after making sure that the butterfly is fully closed before you start.) If the click is heard before the butterfly starts opening, then your problem is elsewhere. If the butterfly opens before the click, then thats your problem. You will need to adjust the cable that comes from the governor to the carb. Come back here with your results before attempting any adjustment as it can go very wrong if you dont know what you are doing.

So. before doing anything else.

Ignition off,

choke button fully IN

look into the carb throat for the second butterfly plate

slowly push the pedal while listening for a light click

watch the butterfly.

Click first then butterfly movement, all there is fine

Butterfly moves then you hear the click, adjustment is required.

come back here for instruction.

simples!

If you struggle to hear the click, pull the wires from the spark plugs and turn the ignition on. The starter will spin the engine the moment the switch clicks but the cart will not start, so you can do the same test.

If you do everything in the exact order described, then we can move on to the next stage.

Remember. Before doing anything, you MUST make sure that the choke butterfly is fully open and the throttle butterfly is fully closed.

The mirror tricked worked great. It was fully closed and didn't begin to open until after the click and seemed to be fully opened when the pedal was to the floor.

I also removed that black plate to see how it all worked and in case I needed to adjust something.

After replacing that air hose I mentioned earlier (the other one was rotted and cracked) it did seem to make a difference in the jerking itself as well as no back fire and very little if any struggle going up hill.

I also clocked it at 13mph on a straightaway.

I like to think the air hose fixed it but I am still willing to look for further causes if need be.

Sent from my LGLS676 using Tapatalk

[Cartmaster]

Superb. Lets hope you found a cure. it may be worth checking the valve lash at some point too.

[oldboyblue]

So it decided to start backfiring again yesterday. I lashed the valves to .004 while the engine was a little warm before I started messing with the carb and hose to fix it I thought.

It hasn't been ran as long as It was prior to when it started to do it again.

I read the discussion about lashing it cold or hot. I did it cold a few years ago and seemed to help but decided to do it warm because that seemed to make the most sense.

Do you think the reason it is backfiring again is due to the valves this time and do I need to check them when it is as hot as it was when it did it again?

Sent from my LGLS676 using Tapatalk

[Cartmaster]

Valve lash should always be checked with a cold engine.

If an exhaust valve is slightly open when the spark plug fires, it can cause a backfire through the exhaust. setting them hot or warm may well cause tight valves and the symptoms you describe. You could try setting the lash to .006 and see if it improves the backfiring. This will not harm anything but may be a little more rattley. if there is improvement, then you can suspect a hotter than usual running engine or maybe damaged valves. If the backfiring is more a popping noise from the carb, then the inlet valves may need adjustment or be too worn to improve by setting valve lash and may need replacing. This is a common issue with these engines and a sure sign of worn inlet valves is more thread showing above the nut on the adjusters for the two middle valves compared to the outer ones.