1990 DS - No power in reverse

[fsu1tm]

I have to admit that the DVM I used was one of those cheap ones from HF. I used a different VM (non-digital) and read 6.8 on two of the batteries.

[fsu1tm]

Here are three pics. First one is a crappy shot of the VM reading 6.8 volts. Second is a pic of the 6 batteries showing the reverse hookup. Third is the charger. It's old but still works. I've read that you guys like pictures

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[scottyb]

Okay - that's an old analog meter, good for cadio tubes but not golf carts. Get yourself a Digital Multi meter they range from $3 at HF to a good $40-50 unit at any big box store... and up. Digital is where it's at. You have the right batteries and charger.
Now 2 arrows, looks like it's connected at the arrow in the middle of the pack where you get 18v .

Exercise. Use your meter to check the voltage of the 2 batteries together under the drivers seat, find where you can read 12-13v for both of them.

[fsu1tm]

I thank you for the concern about the batteries but is this affecting my initial concern about no power in reverse? Reverse was working fine until New Years Eve and no changes were made before then. Reverse just got weak.

Don't get me wrong, I will definitely be taking your advice on the batteries and will make any and all changes suggested. I'm just wondering what's wrong with reverse.

[joesam]

Yes, he's trying to help. Reverse only uses half (3) of your 6 batteries on your type of cart. If your unlucky enough to have one or two (weakening but not totally dead) batteries within those 3, then yes - reverse will be awful....but those same weak batteries may not be so noticeable when using all 6 to drive forward....because the whole battery pack would then be "pitching-in" to make up for the weak ones.

[fsu1tm]

Sorry. Didn't mean for my last post to sound disrespectful or unappreciative. I guess what I was trying to say is: if my batteries are showing at least 6v each and the wiring shows reverse using half (3) of the batteries, hasn't this ruled out a battery and wiring to the batteries issue? Could it be a broken coil? Bad solenoid? Microswitch? V-Glide?

I will stop tomorrow and get a new DVM and not one as cheap as the $3 (free) from HF I have now. I'll then check the batteries again and start a new thread about that problem should they be reading high. BTW. What is high for a 6v battery?

Thanks for the help. I really do appreciate it.

[joesam]

Sometimes batteries look OK until you hit them with a load. Then they collapse. Its very common. So what he'll want you to do is hook your (new) voltmeter to each of those 3 batteries; one at a time and set the voltmeter on your seat. Then back up and watch for the voltage to dive. If it doesn't take a dive; then its on to look for something else. Anything over 6.5 volts after a short cruise is high.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by joesam

Sometimes batteries look OK until your hit them with a load. Then they collapse. Its very common. So what he'll want you to do is hook your (new) voltmeter to each of those 3 batteries; one at a time and set the voltmeter on your seat. Then back up and watch for the voltage to dive. If it doesn't take a dive; then its on to look for something else.

Yes - this is exactly where I was going
Also note the same drive system components are used for forward and reverse. So it is not a problem with the parts you mentioned. There is a small chance it could be a problem in the high amp contacts within the F&R switch.

[fsu1tm]

Thanks, joesam. I understand now. Will try to get that done this weekend between chores.

I never doubted you scottyb. Just didn't understand the progression.

[scottyb]

Diagnostics is a step by step process - if we throw everything at you at once your eyes will roll and your head may start spinning