2000.5 Club Card DS, Regen 2, PD Plus DB SOLINOID BYPASS

[Jimok]

Picked up my 1st cart a couple months back in non running condition. After several UTube videos, allot of reading and stopping for advise from local dealers and Club Car in GA, I think my title finally has correct cart info.! (Everyone seemed to have different advise, answers and opinions)

I've been searching for a cart to build vs dropping $5 to $15,k all at once to start using on my hunting property (no smell, no noise, comfort, cargo space, etc...) and around neighborhood. Keeping my ATV for food plot work and game retrieval deep in woods but need cart to climb steep hills and negotiate washouts on trails to and from stands and plots. 250 total acres and guessing distance will not be an issue.

Been researching lifts, tires, HD cables, SD solinoids, controllers and motors and pretty sure I've found a good fit but wanted to get cart up and running to see what a stock cart of this age would do and of course to use around the hood while making upgrades. To date, I've learned what all parts do and where they're located, put a good cleaning on her, replaced tie rod ends, repacked hubs, adjusted brakes, replaced micro-switch in speed control/v-glide and replaced 1 of 2 solinoids. I've been told the rocker style F/R switch does not need to be upgraded when I start beefing it up....agree?

I will end up buying new batteries but actually had great luck reviving 4 year old batteries that sat for 2 years. Show 51.8 volts after sitting 3 weeks, voltage drops to 48 on flats and 44 up hills. Already have 2 gauge cables waiting for new battery set-up.

The cart now runs yet has no power. Voltage stays at 43 and up. Smelled a burning odor when attempting reverse uphill and quickly took a look in rear to see the "old school" metal loop resistor connected to the solinoid was RED hot. Called D&D back who advised I should remove it altogether as the regen system in this year cart really did not work as intended and less to go wrong and less $100 bucks for 2nd SD solenoid. Sounds great to me but hoping for some direction as to how and where all the wires divert to. I saw a great post from ScottyB on leaving it installed along with 2 small wires yet connecting both 2 gauge wires to same post on solenoid then unplugging 3 wire connector from motor. Aiming to do this tonight but still hoping I can rid the entire contraption without dangling wires.

Any suggestions on what I've been advised so far and if the bypass or complete removal of the DB solenoid and resistor would be best would be greatly appreciated! If complete removal is best, looking for wire management as well.

[mrgolf]

Just run the large cable from controller direct to motor instead of going to solenoid and then to motor. Clip the small wires and stuff them in the wire loom.

[Hunter450]

Jimok...Welcome to the best forum for golf carts!

I purchased the same DS cart about a year ago for the exact same reasons as you with the goal to build a hunting cart for the hunt and leave the wheeler alone until needed. I was having issues with my cart not being able to pull a slight incline in reverse. Come to find out the motor was dying so it forced me to start my build at the business end of the cart. So after a month of research I contacted David (Site Sponsor) @ Revolution Golf Cars and he advised me to upgrade my cart to an IQ cart while upgrading with a new motor, controller, HD solenoid and MCOR 4 throttle control. I invested more $ in this upgrade than I paid for the cart but it was the best decision I could of made knowing I was going to keep the cart for a long time. Like you & I David is a hunter too and understands what we need. Contact David and he'll explain to you in laymen's terms how to transform your cart into a stealth, strong and reliable huntin machine. Good Luck!

[Jimok]

Thank you Old Sk Soldier! Sounds too simple and on my way home to give it a go. I thought there were 2 large and 2 smalls but I'm sure I'll see what you're talking about shortly. Thanks again!

[mrgolf]

Originally Posted by Jimok

Thank you Old Sk Soldier! Sounds too simple and on my way home to give it a go. I thought there were 2 large and 2 smalls but I'm sure I'll see what you're talking about shortly. Thanks again!

Don't forget to unplug the speed sensor from end of motor.

[Jimok]

Thanks Hunter 450! I read on the MCOR when trying to learn the cart and sounded like the best option yet did not realize I could make the conversion. There's way more to these carts then I guessed. My next dilema is trying to decide if I should flip the cart and pocket $1200 to $1500.00 and put toward the Beast 36 all decked out $3,200 to $3,500 or continue with build (probably end up around $4,k in upgrades and accessories. I know the Beast is a cheaper way out just not sure if it the same cart or lesser of a cart that I could build.

[Hunter450]

I looked into the Beast too when I started this process. Nice machine but I prefer the club car aluminum frame over the EZGo light steel frames for longevity plus I get the satisfaction of knowing exactly what I have and learned a lot during the build. I agree, there's more to these carts then just batteries, motor and a steering wheel.

[Jimok]

Success! CC runs strong now. Thanks to Hunter450 & MrGolf!!! Great points on Aluminum frame and knowing exactly what I have after a build. Even tougher decision as the CC frame, battery trays, and body are in great shape, brakes were like new, rear end dope was clean...obvious the folks had it maintained up until the solinoids went out. Love the "boxy" look of the CC's too. I'm guessing odds are the used Beast for sale will need something/more cash yet if not, $500 to $1,k cheaper going with Beast, plus time/labor. About how much did you spend on MCOR upgrade and is a "reliability" upgrade or smoother /better acceleration?