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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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09-25-2012, 12:42 PM | #31 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,419
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Re: Controller question
huh? I always thought the control board regulated the output. Learn something new everyday.
You are saying jumpered chargers are safe to charge with then? |
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09-25-2012, 01:11 PM | #32 | |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: Controller question
Quote:
I think it is okay to use an automatic ferroresonant transformer type charger with a bypassed relay until you can get it fixed, but only for up to about 12-16 hours at a time and you should keep a close eye on the on-charge voltage (48V max) and water level. I'm simply not sure if they didn't tweak the design a little when they added a control board to the original manual design. |
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09-26-2012, 12:01 AM | #33 | |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 52
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Re: Controller question
Quote:
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09-26-2012, 12:05 AM | #34 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 52
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Re: Controller question
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09-26-2012, 05:43 AM | #35 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: Controller question
I'm not sure if you can find an exact replacement control board, but a part# 28668-G01 replaces both the control board and the mechanical timer. Here it is at one of the site sponsors, but you can search with the part# and might find it elsewhere.
https://www.3rsalesandservice.com/ca...vice/10892.htm Also, they have an ammeter that should replace the ammeter on your charger. https://www.3rsalesandservice.com/ca...rvice/3454.htm Unfortunately, the charger puts out more amps than the ammeter function of your multimeter is likely to be able measure. (Most DMM are limited to about 10A and the charger puts out 20A) However, we know the charger is putting out amps or it wouldn't be charging the batteries, so the charger's ammeter is most likely bad. Those battery and pack voltages look okay, but how do they stand up under load is the question. Drive the cart around for half an hour, let the batteries rest for 15 minutes and measure the voltages. That should give you a pretty good idea of how good or bad the batteries are. |
09-26-2012, 09:38 AM | #36 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 52
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Re: Controller question
I do have just one more question. 95 Medalist Series Cart, 400 amp controller, HD Solenoid, HD F&R Switch and 2g. Cables with 22" tires and I run a solid 11 mph on flat streets. Does that sound normal? I knew it wasn't going to be a speed demon but I really expected more than 11. BTW, again I thank the both of you for all your help!
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09-26-2012, 10:37 AM | #37 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: Controller question
The stock speed for a '95 Medalist Series is 12MPH and with 22" tires, it should get about 15MPH mathematically, but the stock controller, cables and F/R might not be able to pass the amps needed to turn the taller tires that fast. However, the upgrades you've listed ought to do the job.
You ought to be getting upwards of 15MPH with your setup. Might be some mechanical drag someplace. Dry or bad bearings, dragging brakes shoes, under inflated tires, alignment, etc. Or it could be electrical. Weak batteries, or not adequately charged? Excessive resistance in the high current circuit? Clip your DVM on the main battery pack terminals and monitor voltage while at full speed. It'll drop quite a bit while accelerating, but shouldn't be down much while cruising. Remember that voltage. Reconnect DVM between M- and B+ on controller. when cruising at full speed, the voltage ought to be pretty close to whatever the battery pack voltage was at full speed. |
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