DCS solenoid wont click cart stalls

[tboyd20111]

OK, I started with the reed switch wire and worked my way back and coudnt get voltage until the run/tow switch so I used a jumper wire and jumped the pedal micro switch at pin 5 to the + battery and got the cart to do the move thing. While the micro was jumped, I also REMOVED the blue wire from small post of the solenoid and jumped from that post over to the - battery, I pushed the pedal and CLICK! Woohoo. So I think we have made it back to your earlier post succesfully. I feel alot better then I did last night. Thanks.

[radioman]

Originally Posted by tboyd20111

OK, I started with the reed switch wire and worked my way back and coudnt get voltage until the run/tow switch so I used a jumper wire and jumped the pedal micro switch at pin 5 to the + battery and got the cart to do the move thing. While the micro was jumped, I also REMOVED the blue wire from small post of the solenoid and jumped from that post over to the - battery, I pushed the pedal and CLICK! Woohoo. So I think we have made it back to your earlier post succesfully. I feel alot better then I did last night. Thanks.

OK. Now forget about running more test until we get positive voltage on solenoid small terminal to the left. Leave blue wire disconnected. With charger UNPLUGGED, run tow switch in run, fwd/reverse in forward and key switch on you should get voltage anywhere along the path in that order to the small terminal on solenoid connection on the White/yellow wire. (From this point voltage is also fed to the pedal box switch and the controller by the other two wires connected at that point, red to pedal box and yellow to controller). If voltage is missing anywhere in these points there is an open circuit. This voltage source originates at the ignition interlock switch on the small white wire on the charger receptacle and works its way through each to the coil. Lets get that straightened out first. Then go back to troubleshooting why we are not getting negative from the controller to the other solenoid post.

[tboyd20111]

I started with the reed switch and got nothing so I hooked the reed switch wire to B+ and now get voltage everywhere. I get voltage on both small posts of the coil. I also get voltage on pins 5(with pedal pushed), 6, 9, 10. 7 is still unhooked. Seems all is normal (except for jumping the reed switch) but I tried the jumper from B- to Small post on solenoid without pushing the pedal and solenoid clicks as soon as I touch it if F & R switch is in either direction. It shouldnt click until pedal is pushed so I must still have something screwey but I dont know what.

[radioman]

Originally Posted by tboyd20111

I started with the reed switch and got nothing so I hooked the reed switch wire to B+ and now get voltage everywhere. I get voltage on both small posts of the coil. I also get voltage on pins 5(with pedal pushed), 6, 9, 10. 7 is still unhooked. Seems all is normal (except for jumping the reed switch) but I tried the jumper from B- to Small post on solenoid without pushing the pedal and solenoid clicks as soon as I touch it if F & R switch is in either direction. It shouldnt click until pedal is pushed so I must still have something screwey but I dont know what.

All that is good information. All those points should have voltage.

No No. Solenoid WILL energize without pedal pressed because you forcing it to energize with the wire from B- where the blue wire was removed. But it should not move until you press the pedal. Voltage on both coil terminals is normal until it gets energized then only the B+ side will have voltage. You are reading through the coil from B+ because it not energized. That is what the controller is suppose to do which is where we started.

This is getting difficult..

Why don't you just reconnect everything like it is supposed to be and only bypass the reed ignition interlock switch wire to B+ like you have it now and leave the blue wire off for the time being for this one test. Clip B- to the solenoid where the blue wire was removed. The solenoid should energize and possibly the cart may otherwise operate when you press the pedal. (If the cart moves that is a good sign).If it does or does not, remove the B- jumper and reconnect the Blue wire back to where it was removed. That will put you back where you started troubleshooting. Maybe we can double check everything. I still suspect the controller might be the problem. (don't connect B- to the solenoid with the blue wire connected again). Be careful jumping things... one wrong connection can cause trouble. Don't give up.

[tboyd20111]

Yes I believe the controller is bad because with the reed switch wire connected to b+ and b- connected to where the blue wire was connected the cart operates as normal. When in connect the blue wire back to the coil, the cart does not operate.

[radioman]

Originally Posted by tboyd20111

Yes I believe the controller is bad because with the reed switch wire connected to b+ and b- connected to where the blue wire was connected the cart operates as normal. When in connect the blue wire back to the coil, the cart does not operate.

OK.. I think you are right. Now you got a lot of experience working on carts. Bad controller. It is herby declared faulty.

[radioman]

You might want to consider replacing the reed switch. It keeps you from driving off with cart plugged into charger. Always turn switch to tow before swapping out controllers.

[tboyd20111]

Thanks for all your help. I think I had a little trouble understanding some of your post just because I was unfamiliar with all this in the beginning but you have helped me understand how this thing operates now. In wish I would have signed up on this forum 6 months ago! Well thanks again and so long until next time it make something spark.

[tboyd20111]

Got it

[Knothead]

I'd like to throw in one other test suggestion (from personal experience!). Check continuity on the blue wire that isn't supplying negative from controller. If this wire shows good continuity, check the actual connection of that wire at the controller connector. I had similar problems, & finally figured out that the actual little pin connector inside the connector wasn't making connection. If this is the case with your cart, too, then it would explain why a different controller exhibits the same problem......it's in the wiring, not in the controller.....