Barely Hear Reverse Buzzer

[vinper]

I think I have wired it to the wrong terminal

[oldnavycdr]

The other day the buzzer came on full throated but today it is about half as loud. I'm wondering if this is a connection problem or loose wire. Where might I look to ensure a tight connection?

[yurtle]

I'd check the voltage at both terminals of the beeper when it's quiet. If you don't have full pack voltage, then start looking for connection problems. If you have full pack voltage and it's quiet, it's the beeper.

EDIT: I just noticed you have an RXV. I'm not certain what voltage the beeper uses, but I'd still measure it and post results.

[oldnavycdr]

Thanks, yurtle. Dealer is coming by today to check it. I'll report on the results for member reference.

[oldnavycdr]

My tech dropped in a new one so time will tell if it was the unit or lose wiring. It is now obnoxious as ever.

[kgsc]

Just put a piece of duct tape over it. Still will be able to hear it but not as loud.

[yurtle]

I used high temp electrical tape. Others have used hearing protection foam.

[oldnavycdr]

Funny, that is how the whole saga started. I had put a piece of tape over the hole to reduce the volume but it seemed a bit too low. A week later I removed the tape and there was no increase in volume -- it was nearly inaudible. I've gone full circle on this. I don't know if the tape creates a back pressure that damages the buzzer or it was a bad buzzer to begin with but I think I'll leave it alone.

[yurtle]

Mine's an old school buzzer - non-polarized. Newer ones are polarized, and the one that came with my new FNR pulsed on and off. I gave that one away and stuck with my old one. Possibly if it pulsed, it had some electronics that just overheated? Did it get too quiet immediately, or did it change over time?

Mines probably close to an air-tight seal, as the high temp electrical tape is pretty good stuff. Lasts decades, even when used inside a car, which gets pretty hot with windows up in the summer sun.

EDIT:
I misspoke. Mine does have a red and black wire coming out of it, so it's probably polarized. I though it merely had two spade terminals.

[oldnavycdr]

No joy. The tech dropped in a new buzzer which worked perfectly...for awhile. I took the cart out on the course for a bit, tested the reverse buzzer a few times and then it quit. There was an occasion where placing the F/R switch back into F that the cart didn't go. Intermittent electrical issues are the worst! So, my guess is a bad F/R switch or loose connection there. As a side note, my OEM SOC meter has some condensation in the bezel when exposed to the sun/higher temps. Not sure if this is related but I seem to have some issues. Could be a bad connection/heat related in the F/R switch. Not sure but dealer will need to address.