convert ezgo DCS to Series help!

[buffdaddy38]

Hi, new here... so I apologize up front for my ignorance.

My son has a 1995, 36V EZGO TXT that originally had a Alltrax DCX controller in it and Shunt type motor. He ran it on jack stands and fried the motor. So, he went and picked up a spare motor my neighbor had and popped it in there and fried the controller because it was a series motor.

Anyway, I bought a used Alltrax AXE 4855, new reverse switch, new solenoid, cables, etc and rewired the whole cart for series.

Problem is, I cant get it to run. the contactor engages but no power to motor.

When the key is turned on and the accelerator is pushed the contactor operates and the light on top of the controller turns green then flashes red 3 times. The manual says that means "failed to return to zero" or something...I don't know what that means.

I also don't know what the controller was used in before I purchased it. Is it likely that I need to re-program it for my application?

[yurtle]

It wouldn't hurt to go to Alltrax' website and download the free software for configuring the 4855. You'll need a serial port on your computer, or a serial to USB adapter cord. A good long cord will come in handy, since the controller needs you to either press the throttle until the LED light turns on, or supply a separate power source, as shown in the documentation, available on Altrax' website. Check throttle input, be make sure it's setup for an ITS, and not a pot box. For Colorado and Washington folks, it's not that kind of "pot" box. You can also monitor the throttle input from 0% to 100% as you push the throttle.

A series cart has two separate circuits. The solenoid activation circuit, which starts with battery positive, goes through the reed switch, a microswitch on the FNR (Forward/Neutral/Reverse switch) which makes if it's in either F or or R, but not when it's in N, the key switch, and the throttle microswitch. If the solenoid's clicking and the controller is powering up, all of those switches and connectors are good.

The only other "small wire" device is the Inductive Throttle Sensor (ITS). There are spade connectors in the throttle box, and there's a molex connector that's located between the FNR and the controller. It connects the throttle microswitch and the ITS to the wiring harness. Try unplugging and replugging them.

The next circuit to check is the high current, thick cables. Alltrax' website has a good wiring diagram. Start with the battery negative or positive, and visually check each cable, to make sure it's wired up correctly. Since you have a new controller, FNR, solenoid, and cables, hopefully they all work, so I'd focus on the large cables. Once you've confirmed they are correct, there are only a couple of things that break the connections of that circuit, the solenoid, and the FNR. Clip either the positive or negative lead on the battery pack, and start testing each point, starting with the battery pack. Place it on jack-stands and press the accelerator for each test point.

[buffdaddy38]

thanks for the info, I have rewired it 4 times to make sure everything was right. I have one diagram that shows the positive lead from the battery pack being fused with the 400a fuse, and then going through the contactor. I have another wiring diagram that shows the negative lead with the fuse and being switched by the contactor... I have wire it both ways and get the same results.

[scottyb]

using (+) or (-) will not effect operation, there are several ways to skin this cat. Sounds like you need the proper throttle input signal programmed. Ezgo ITS (10-6v) would be a 4 green flash signal - then solid green

You currently are set to 0-5k which explains why the controller is not functioning.

[buffdaddy38]

Thanks scottyb,

I just got a USB to Serial adapter cable and am going to look at the program.