Battery cable gauge for conversion

[augiedoggy]

Unless your upgrading to a different voltage or a higher "load" meaning bigger tires, controller or motor which would "pull" more amps from the battery, the batteries alone wont require you to change the cables, solenoid or switch.

The only way the battery alone could effect it is if it was too small and could only put out much less amps than the cart is trying to pull in whatever form it was before the battery upgrade. Typically though if this is the case the bms should cause the battery to shut down. My money on that mention of the hot switch above if theres a wiring issue or bad/weak connection in one of the cables

[twistr25]

Originally Posted by augiedoggy

Unless your upgrading to a different voltage or a higher "load" meaning bigger tires, controller or motor which would "pull" more amps from the battery, the batteries alone wont require you to change the cables, solenoid or switch.

The only way the battery alone could effect it is if it was too small and could only put out much less amps than the cart is trying to pull in whatever form it was before the battery upgrade. Typically though if this is the case the bms should cause the battery to shut down. My money on that mention of the hot switch above if theres a wiring issue or bad/weak connection in one of the cables

My money on that mention of the hot switch above if theres a wiring issue or bad/weak connection in one of the cables

Would this likely be around the battery cables or from the switch back to the motor? I didn't touch any of the cables from the switch back, so just makes it confusing. Far as I can tell, everything on the battery side is tight. Just trying to narrow down.

[augiedoggy]

Originally Posted by twistr25

My money on that mention of the hot switch above if theres a wiring issue or bad/weak connection in one of the cables

Would this likely be around the battery cables or from the switch back to the motor? I didn't touch any of the cables from the switch back, so just makes it confusing. Far as I can tell, everything on the battery side is tight. Just trying to narrow down.

So either the switch was hot the whole time and your just noticing it now or in a strange coincidence the switch is failing now when you replaced the 36v pack with a new 36v pack. The 2v lithium increase here with less sag should only make the current drop and switch/wiring run cooler in this case. if the motor is trying to pull more amps the weakest link or connection point in the circuit will typically heat up. The thing is you havent made any changes that would cause the same motor and controller to pull more current with the new battery unless im missing something.
This may sound like a dumb question but are you measuring the voltages while actually driving the cart under load? Also are you reusing the old cables that connected you old batteries in a series? have you cleaned these cable connectors? if there corrosion inside the connector where they meet the copper wire then just moving the cables around when doing the swap may have made that connection weaker and can heat things up but usually that cable or terminal point will be the one to heat up.