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Gas Yamaha Gas Yamaha Golf Cars; G1 through "The Drive" and U-Max Utility Vehicles |
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#1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 15
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![]() I just bought a rebuild kit that includes
(1) .50 mm oversize piston and ring assembly (1) Exhaust valve (1) Intake valve (1) Head gasket (1) Valve cover gasket (1) Crankcase gasket (1) Intake manifold gasket (1) Carburetor base gasket (1) Exhaust manifold gasket (1) Clutch side bearing (1) Fan side bearing (1) Clutch side seal (1) Fan side seal (2) Connecting rod bearings (2) Valve guides (2) Valve stem seals Never done one of these before. What kind of problems should I anticipate? Do I have to pull off the primary clutch? If so do I need a super special tool? Any other pitfalls you guys know of? I will have my dad there with me who has been rebuilding car and motorcycle engines his whole life, but he know absolutely nothing about golf carts. I want to make sure I have that side of things figured out. Thanks for the help. |
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#2 |
Gone Crazy
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chesterfield, Va
Posts: 6,021
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![]() I will suggest investing in a service/rebuild manual and do some throne reading before you start.
You will also need specific engine specs, torque values and teardown and reassembly sequencing directions which it will provide. You have started off on the right foot by not skimping on half of a rebuild so make your efforts last by doing it correctly. ![]() |
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#3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 15
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![]() That's good advice. I forgot all about manuals. I think I actually have an electric copy of the service manual. I'll have to look.
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#4 |
Gone Crazy
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chesterfield, Va
Posts: 6,021
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![]() Keep us posted on your progress.
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#5 |
Vegas modded 420
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: West MI
Posts: 15,368
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![]() You need the puller for the clutch, its a bolt with a rod. You can make one. The cylinder and block are all one piece on these, otherwise very simple. Note the case where the balance shaft runs in it some get loose here and knock and you can't fix it, or maybe someone here found a way. Get it timed right and make sure the oil slinger is right, you should be good to go the rest is typical torque values and such. I'd also recommend you wash under the hood really well before you start.
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#6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 15
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![]() Ok, I ordered a primary clutch puller today. $40 bucks is a rip off for a fancy bolt, but I don't want to mess with trying to make one. What is an oil slinger? I pressure washer her real good a couple of weeks ago so my work area is clean.
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#7 |
Vegas modded 420
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: West MI
Posts: 15,368
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![]() Slinger is the tab off the bottom of the rod that splashes oil all over. Its not right you don't get oil to the engine. Only found in small 4 stroke lawn engines mostly.
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#8 |
Sometime's............
![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tacoma Washington
Posts: 11,753
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![]() I understand what your saying, but a special tool for the job is just needed sometimes. The Yamaha version is 2 times that cost. Hope the one you ordered was 'tempered". I tried cheaper ones and it would damage the threads or worse...strip them...then you cut/grind to get the fixed sheave off and buy a new/used one and hope the crank wasn't damaged. Can I ask where you got you's from?
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#9 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 15
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![]() I got my tool from Buggies Unlimited
I tried to get one from a site sponsor, but they wanted $12 for shipping. It is bad enough the glorified bolt is $40, but $12 bucks to ship the bolt makes me want to stab it in my eye when it gets here. I got free shipping from Buggies Unlimited thru their weekly email coupon. Sorry site sponsors I tried. I have no idea if it is tempered. I assume so. The picture looks like the same one sold at most places. |
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#10 | |
Sometime's............
![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tacoma Washington
Posts: 11,753
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