Electric EZGO RXV won't move on it's own

[BMR2018]

Can anyone recommend what I should do? What's my next step......

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[usgicollector]

I would start by undoing everything you have done so far. Then see if the cart goes back to normal.

This way you'll be able to se if you have done some damage to the cart.

[BMR2018]

I have done that all ready... thanks though.


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[BobBoyce]

See if you can get your hands on a early RXV diagnostic handset. It plugs into the Run Plug socket under the cupholder. You may have to check with dealers in your area to find one that has the handset.

[nickdalzell1]

When in TOW, when you turn key to N (ON) does it release the brake? (one click, another from the rear and you should be able to push it. Or does it not do jack?

When in RUN, key in R, do you get a backup alarm? if not, these cars will shut down if they don't detect a backup alarm present or a bad backup alarm.

RUN, key in F, does it do the full powerup sequence? (click, 1 millisecond beep test for backup alarm, brake/motor twist test, and another click) or does it just go 'click click!' and do nothing? if it does the latter, you're experiencing the 'Drive Fault' error code, which can be caused by many things, a bad controller being one of 'em.

Something else that can happen...Look at your charger port on the car itself. Does it have a little red LED always lit? a bad or shorted charging port can shut the car down as well. Common failure is when you're undoing the main battery positive and the ring breaks off the small black 'cube' on the grey wire that goes to the charge port. This black 'cube' is some sort of temperature sensor and the ring terminal tends to corrode off or break easily, and render the car inoperable as well.

Also, what are the batteries testing at? Load wise?

[BMR2018]

When in TOW, turn the key to N, one click, releases brake.

In RUN key in R, backup siren works

In RUN, key in F, 1-4 clunks, on average 2 (cla-clunk, cla-clunk) then nothing.
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Just opened charging port and it's completely fried!! Assuming the batteries are charged would this cause it to fail as described? or is it something to do with the batteries not getting properly charged?

I'm using a multimeter and getting 50.2v but is there another test I should be doing? In other words the charger seems to be doing the job but my experience with batteries is limited.

Also,
What caused this. Could it be a cheap charger and moisture? or something to do with my tinkering.


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[cgtech]

Check the blue wire coming out of the charge port. Should have 48v whenever charger is not plugged in. If not, apply power from pack main positive to the blue wire from the cart harness at the charger port.

[BMR2018]

The blue wire has 52 v.

I replaced the charger port and still not working. One thing I have noticed is both the old and new one's charging light doesn't light up when being charged. Does indicate anything?

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[usgicollector]

If your using an after market charger light usually doesn't light up.

Normal...

[jkredman]

I read you were getting 50.2 volts across the pack, and the blue wire has 52 volts. Is that correct?

I also read there is no charging light. It will flash green when charging, and display a steady green when fully charged. (At least mine does.)

There is a grey wire that ends in a black rectangle with a ring that goes around the positive battery terminal that is closest to the controller. That is actually a temperature sensor. Is it in good shape?

I'm wondering if your primary issue is not with the battery pack. If I understand your prior comment; at 50 some odd volts I'd say your battery pack is in good shape.

When you say that you turn on the key you get a cla-clunk. Is that a hard cla-clunk that jerks the cart?

If so you could be failing the 'twist test' which is a safety test to ensure the motor brake is working. You should get some clicking but the cart shouldn't jerk or move.

Please add some additional descriptive detail.