2011 EZGO RXV Brake Lights stuck on and cart won't move

[jkredman]

Here’s my thought process:

The fact that the brake lights are on, to me, indicates the controller is shutting the cart down.

It could be for several reasons.

I asked if the cart jerks, or even twitches, that’s the failure of the twist test, which is usually, but not always the motor brake. Like I said my cart was failing the twist test. I put a new motor brake on it for around $200. That didn’t fix the problem. The problem was an old wiring harness.

I asked if the cart would release in tow mode.

I read it would not. The brake was still locked. That could still be a controller or motor brake.

My thought on using the plugs to release the motor brake, doesn’t completely eliminate the possibility of a brake issue, but it makes more likely that you have a controller issue if the brake releases.

If the brake doesn’t release in this mode, then yes, start with the motor brake.

And Bob Boyce was typing as I was typing. Yes check the fuse first. I forgot about that being there.


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[dfischbach]

I checked every fuse I could find on the cart, including the 3 or 4 under the cover for the controller and all looked good.

[BobBoyce]

Yea, the controller senses the brake - wire, checking for +48 coming through the motor brake coil when the FET is not active. If it does not detect that +48V, it will turn on the brake light and halt in POST fail. It triggers a motor brake EM coil open fault.

[dfischbach]

Hi Bob, thanks for your replies so far. In reading some other threads you seem to be the go to guy for most of this stuff. What would be your next suggestion for my situation? Try another motor brake? I know very little about these carts or how they operate.

[BobBoyce]

I would check the run plug, ohm out the motor brake (spec is 25.5 ohms), and try the brake bypass unlock procedure on the label under the controller cover. I really didn't want to accept that a short of the +48v at the battery pack post to the +12v light would create enough of a surge to damage the controller. They are prone to that, but usually it takes a hard drop of voltage to do this. When the keyswitch is turned off, some housekeeping steps take place before the capacitors in the controller lose enough energy for the logic stage to shut down. If this housekeeping is interrupted, the memory of the controller can get corrupted. I can usually reflash the Curtis controllers to bring them back, but not the Danahers... yet.

[cgtech]

Here's another idea to try... Since you already have lights, maybe factory lights with a factory DC Converter. Try looking umder the driver's seat position for a finned box with a square plug on the side. Unplug it. I have seen failed DC converters shut the cart down. This is a stretch of the imagination, but I have seen it, and unplugging the DC converter would make the cart run again. If this happens to be the answer, DPI makes a DC converter that directly plugs into the factory harness for about $100 less than the OEM converter.

[dfischbach]

I was actually thinking/hoping the dc converter might be the issue so I did order a factory replacement. It just arrived yesterday and I will be trying it this weekend. I am thinking because the headlights are still working without issue that the converter is probably not the problem but I will rule that out this weekend. Bob, when you say check the run plug ohm out the motor brake, can you be more specific in dumbed down terms? I am not that tech savvy when it comes to these machines, especially the electrical side of things.

[jkredman]

Bob is referring to a plug with 2 wires in it under the cup holder in center of the cart. Make sure that didn’t somehow come loose.

Ohm out the motor brake is from the back of the cart through the access panel. (Held on by 2 Torx head screws).

The brake is on the end of he motor opposite where it attaches to the axle. There is a 2 pin connector on the top. Unplug the connector and put the ohm meter probes across the exposed pins. A good brake will measure around 25 ohms. Much less than 25 ohms, it shorted and will eventually take out the controller. Much above 25 ohms, it’s open and a really heavy paper weight.


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[dfischbach]

When checking the ohms, I am assuming I am checking the exposed pins on the brake itself and not the connector? Should that be checked with the key on/off? Assuming since it is unplugged, no need to apply the brake pedal when checking it? Sorry for the million questions, just not familiar with this stuff. Thanks again for all the responses!

[usgicollector]

Originally Posted by dfischbach

When checking the ohms, I am assuming I am checking the exposed pins on the brake itself and not the connector? YES Should that be checked with the key on/off? Off Assuming since it is unplugged, no need to apply the brake pedal when checking it? Right Sorry for the million questions, just not familiar with this stuff. Thanks again for all the responses!