08 PDS still stops then goes while driving!

[Waterfowlwidowmaker]

Originally Posted by Golf cart guy

Could be solenoid drop out

Golf cart guy, I was able to get the cart into diagnostic mode and got the code 4-3. Looked it up in the manual and it is solenoid drop out. I'm assuming time to just order a new one?

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[JohnnieB]

For the solenoid to energize, there has to be B+ on the small stud with the yellow wire on it and B- on the small stud with the blue wire on it. Both of these voltages are supplied by the controller and if ether is interrupted for a fraction of a second, the controller tosses a 4-3 error and the cart rapidly stops.

Attached is a drawing showing the path the voltage takes to get to the yellow wire (B+) on the solenoid coil, via four set of switch contacts, seven wires (with connectors at each end) and multiple runs on the PC boards inside the controller.

The B- path to the blue wire on the solenoid coil is less complex, basically, the pedal switch tells the main coil driver to turn on.

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Suggest you disconnect the blue wire from the solenoid (and diode if one is installed) and in its place, connect a jumper to the B- terminal on controller. The solenoid will now energize when the key is on and a direction is selected on the F/R.

If the cart now runs normally, you either have a bad controller or bad pedal switch.

[Waterfowlwidowmaker]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

For the solenoid to energize, there has to be B+ on the small stud with the yellow wire on it and B- on the small stud with the blue wire on it. Both of these voltages are supplied by the controller and if ether is interrupted for a fraction of a second, the controller tosses a 4-3 error and the cart rapidly stops.

Attached is a drawing showing the path the voltage takes to get to the yellow wire (B+) on the solenoid coil, via four set of switch contacts, seven wires (with connectors at each end) and multiple runs on the PC boards inside the controller.

The B- path to the blue wire on the solenoid coil is less complex, basically, the pedal switch tells the main coil driver to turn on.

-------------
Suggest you disconnect the blue wire from the solenoid (and diode if one is installed) and in its place, connect a jumper to the B- terminal on controller. The solenoid will now energize when the key is on and a direction is selected on the F/R.

If the cart now runs normally, you either have a bad controller or bad pedal switch.

Grrrrrr. You don't think it's the solenoid? I got it to do it once I rode it hard and got it hot/warm I'm assuming. Going up a little grade is when it did it mostly. P.s. I also have a freedom plug in it if that helps with the diagnoses. Was hoping it would be easy to just swap out the solenoid.

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[JohnnieB]

I haven't completely eliminated the solenoid, but I've never heard of one failing during operation, healing itself and then failing again at a later time.

All the four PDS modes do is change the max motor RPM allowed and the strength of the regen braking, if used in that mode. Everything else operates the same and troubleshooting is the same in any PDS mode.

Intermittent problems are very difficult to troubleshoot, simply because you cannot troubleshoot unless the problem exists, you can only speculate about the possibilities based on the symptoms.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Waterfowlwidowmaker

Grrrrrr. You don't think it's the solenoid? I got it to do it once I rode it hard and got it hot/warm I'm assuming. Going up a little grade is when it did it mostly. P.s. I also have a freedom plug in it if that helps with the diagnoses. Was hoping it would be easy to just swap out the solenoid.

More likely than not, it is a loss of connection in the + circuit to the solenoid that causes the dropout. Intermittent connections can be hard to track down. The first thing we usually recommend that you check is a 4 conductor plug and socket near the throttle box. Those are exposed to the weather and get splashed with water and mud. Jack up the cart and block it up with the rear tires off of the ground. Jumper the blue wire on the small solenoid terminal to the controller B- terminal, and turn the key on. The solenoid should click on. Then try wiggling the connectors to see if it flakes out. A temporary fix is to unplug and clean the connectors, unplug and replug a few times to wipe the connections.

A common, more permanent, remedy is to cut the connectors out and splice the 4 wires, solder and heat shrink each to weatherproof is best.

[Waterfowlwidowmaker]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

For the solenoid to energize, there has to be B+ on the small stud with the yellow wire on it and B- on the small stud with the blue wire on it. Both of these voltages are supplied by the controller and if ether is interrupted for a fraction of a second, the controller tosses a 4-3 error and the cart rapidly stops.

Attached is a drawing showing the path the voltage takes to get to the yellow wire (B+) on the solenoid coil, via four set of switch contacts, seven wires (with connectors at each end) and multiple runs on the PC boards inside the controller.

The B- path to the blue wire on the solenoid coil is less complex, basically, the pedal switch tells the main coil driver to turn on.

-------------
Suggest you disconnect the blue wire from the solenoid (and diode if one is installed) and in its place, connect a jumper to the B- terminal on controller. The solenoid will now energize when the key is on and a direction is selected on the F/R.

If the cart now runs normally, you either have a bad controller or bad pedal switch.

Johnny I have the cart lifted in the air and jumper from B- to the solenoid and removed the blue wire.

Are you wanting me to test it in the air or go drive it around?

I looked for the 4 pin connector and do not see one under the cart to the throttle box.

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[Waterfowlwidowmaker]

Here's a couple pictures

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[Waterfowlwidowmaker]

Okay, so I got a little impatient and ran it on the jack stands a little, then I dropped it and tried driving it a little bit. While driving the cart, it was super slow. I didn't drive it far.

Does this give you guys some ideas now?

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[Waterfowlwidowmaker]

Here's the micro switch. Still don't see a plug.

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[JohnnieB]

FWIW:

PDS carts don't have the in-line connector on the cable coming out of the pedal box. Series drives and DCS carts have it.

The reason for the in-line connector was to make assembly easier at the factory. In series and DCS carts, the two wires from the pedal switch and the two wires from the ITS sensor went to two different places (F/R assembly and controller) and the wires leading to those places were bundled into the cart's wiring harness with the other end in the four pin in line connector. That way the assembler only had to plug in the cable from the pedal box instead of running the wires through the harness to separate places, saving time, which is money.

On the other hand, in a PDS cart all four of the wires from the pedal box go to the controller and attach to dedicated Jack (J4), so there is no need for the inline connector.

Part numbers for pedal box cables are as follows.

Series = 25879g04
DCS =25879g03
PDS = 25879g05

Google those numbers and take a look at them and you'll see the differences.