Alltrax 48500 not powering unless hooked to computer

[WalterM6]

With all of the intermittents your having you should check all of your connections. Check that the connections are clean and tight and not crimped onto the insulation. Try cleaning them with contact cleaner.

[Jdonley]

WalterM6: I did take a digital meter checking voltage and/or continuity on all wires previously and they all checked correctly. I marked them off the wiring schematic one by one and of course double checked to make sure they were all wired correctly to the right location.

One thing I thought of was the noise filter. Because activation of the system occurs with pressing the throttle pedal and it appears the signal sometimes powers up and other times it doesn't, could the noise filter I installed be bad or incorrect?

I installed the the noise filter from B- off the controller to the mounting hole of the controller where the bolt is secured into the factory heat sink. The picture I received made it look like this is where it was to be mounted, but I started thinking perhaps this is not working correctly. I don't understand how that filter works.

I read where electric golf carts never use a negative ground to the frame. The noise filter though is attached from the B- to the heatsink which is attached to the pan where the sink is mounted, which is then attached to the frame.

The noise filter has metal ring terminals. I am not sure if this carries the negative voltage to the frame of the cart or is working properly. I can measure this tonight to find out for sure.

[Sergio]

The filter capacitor would not cause any issues.

I think it would help folks if you can post pictures of the Solenoid wiring, Reversing contactor wiring, fnr switch wiring and controller.

Do You have any other connections to individual batteries, like using a 36v reversing contactor in a 48v setup?

[scottyb]

It sounds like you have the filter installed correctly. Controller B- to frame. The heat sink is frame.

The other guy who popped in here with a similar problem also installed the filter with no change. After much testing he concentrated on the wire harness from the pedal box to the controller and he found the harness was intermittently cutting off the signal. Once he replaced the bad wires the problem resolved.

Maybe this helps

[Jdonley]

Sergio: Thanks for the reply. I would be happy to post some pictures tonight. I am running a 6-(8v)battery setup with all of them housed in the battery tray.

I am running a 36v reversing contactor in a 48v system. The negative supply to the contactor comes from the fourth battery negative terminal. The only other wires directly connected to the batteries are the main pack supply 2ga positive and negative cables and the black and white wires to the charging receptacle. I will post a picture of this too.

[Jdonley]

ScottyB: Thanks for the reply! Thanks for confirming the noise filter is installed correctly. The only existing wires that are manufacture original are in this circuit and I can easily replace them. There is an original connector plug with the four wires (in a square formation with male and female ends) for the power and ITS that I originally tested and they seemed to be connecting okay, but that may have only been in that instance. If nothing else, it will check this box off the list. I appreciate all of the replies! Your diagrams and other help off-line were critical to get me to this point.

[Sergio]

The negative supply to the contactor comes from the fourth battery negative terminal

You need to make sure there is a diode on that negative connection from the Reverse Contactor at the battery.

The diode should be installed near the battery post and have the cathode (side with stripe) towards the battery post.

That will assure that connection can only "sink" and not "source" current.

Use a 10Amp diode that can handle the reverse contactor cold operation current, like these:

https://www.amazon.com/20-Pieces-10A...9878007&sr=8-3

Edit:
This may be your entire issue as you have about +17v on the Controller KSI terminal when the FNR is in neutral. If You remove that wire from your 4th battery negative, the Controller should not power up in Neutral.

[Jdonley]

Sergio: I unhooked the negative wire on the 4th battery pack. I tested to see if the contoller would power and it did power up like before, inconsistently.

I ordered the diodes, for .30 cents, what could it hurt. I will submit that the far end of the wire attaches to the negative spades on either side of the reversing contactor and I can confirm that I correctly installed both diodes. Keep reading below for further update.

Also, I plan to post pictures soon. Tight time this week.

[Jdonley]

Scotty B- I started to rewire the small wires of the cart. I have found some success. The first thing I did was to take out the reed switch and wire a new wire directly to contact in the receptacle. So I have the new white wire connected to a new red wire to the original blue wire. That's as far as I got. BUT, I now am getting much more consistent powerup of the controller, I can hear the controller give several soft noises, almost like a purr for a second with four intermittent lights and then solid green. Also, The controller will now power up when it is in gear. It does not power every time, perhaps I need to give it a few seconds from when I switch the rocker into gear. I tried it several times tonight with success and with the cart moving forward and backwards.

I still plan to rewire the rest of the circuit and I ordered a new key switch. One odd thing is the controller will now power up, with the key off, simply by switching the rocker switch into gear.

The other odd thing is that the controller will give a solid red light on the controller when it is in neutral and I press between 3/4 to full throttle. Per the manual, this would suggest it is in programming mode. Though I am less concerned with that right now.

I will update as I make more progress. I appreciate all of the people on here who have taken time to reply and who have offered me help.
JD

[Jdonley]

Sergio and ScottyB- Your instinct with the wiring were correct. I replaced all of the control circuit wires this weekend. I pulled out the blue wire and discovered the insulation was partly worn off. I took the continuity meter and placed in the worn area and it would complete a circuit. This may have been shorting onto the frame. I replaced all of the wiring and placed loom over most wires. The cart still will not work. I printed temporary labels and will post pictures so you all may see how I have my cart wired.

The down side is that the cart continues to have the same problem. I have tipple checked all the wires. The readings continue to be the same as before. I was optimistic when I posted Friday that the cart started to engage more. I did run a cycle of charging on the batteries on Saturday. Since then, it only lit up green on the controller one time and I have not been able to get it to work again.

Given I have replaced the foot microswitch, ITS, key switch, eliminated the reed switch, and run all new wires. It seems to me that one of the major components I installed is faulty. I am planning on calling Alltrax this week and fingers cross they will help me.