1997 DCS not getting power at key switch

[Pedracer97]

I have a DCS cart (1997 with a tow switch and shifter by the leg) that is not getting any power at the key switch. I have an Altrax DCX400. I was having problems with the controller thinking there was too much voltage and would not go anywhere just blinked. I was instructed to jump across the 2 big solenoid lugs with jumper cables and that made the cart go. They contacted alltrax and they said that I could disconnect the Blue wire on the small lug and tape it so it doesnt make a connection and run a wire from that lug to B-. As soon as I turned the key on it lost all power as if a fuse had blown. I checked the fuse on the negative side of the battery pack and its showing good. Any suggestions? Bad controller? Bad diode? Bad Solenoid? Bad resistor?

Battery Voltage - 34.5
Lg side of Solenoid (with positive battery cable) - 34.5
Other Lg side of Solenoid - 32.5
Both middle lugs of solenoid - no voltage

[kernal]

Batteries are DEAD.

[Pedracer97]

Ok. It's been sitting at the shop for a month to get looked at for this problem. Cart was running prior to having no power. I will charge batteries and update the voltages.

[yurtle]

Batteries should NEVER be left at less than fully charged - 38.2.

36 is dead. Yours is beyond dead.

[Pedracer97]

Batteries are at 38.3 after sitting 36 hours after being charged. Still no power to the key switch.

[JohnnieB]

B+ has to go through three switches, several lengths of wire and many connections to get to the keyswitch. One or more of them is open.

Attached is a schematic with the B+ to solenoid coil wiring highlighted. Trace it out and find the missing voltage.

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Not sure why everything died when you turned on keyswitch with blue wire stub connected to B-, unless the wire from B- somehow bypassed the solenoid coil and connected B- directly to B+ causing a high amp draw through the above mentioned switches, wires and connections.

Please post picture showing controller, solenoid and wiring as it was when that happened.

[Pedracer97]

I plugged another controller I had that used to work (minus reverse) with the existing solenoid and now I'm getting 4.6 vts on the blue wire out of the controller and 4.6 vts on the yellow wire out of the controller. Do I still need to check check switches and wiring?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Pedracer97

I plugged another controller I had that used to work (minus reverse) with the existing solenoid and now I'm getting 4.6 vts on the blue wire out of the controller and 4.6 vts on the yellow wire out of the controller. Do I still need to check check switches and wiring?

There ought to be 38.2V on the Yellow and Blue wires until pedal is pressed, then blue wire goes to 0V.

Yellow wire comes from keyswitch, not controller. (If it does, you don't have a DCS cart with DCX controller installed.)

[Pedracer97]

Finally getting around to this cart. I have a bad micro switch for the forward side. I cut the end off and twisted the wires together. I turned the cart on and had power at the switch. I was going to attempt to drive the cart to see if it moved and by the time I looked back at the power meter it was off and no power again. I noticed the resistor on the large battery lugs was hot too the touch (not sure if this is normal or not). I installed the old solenoid and an old controller prior to doing this today.

[scottyb]

The resistor gets smoking hot when the controller is powered up and calling for battery amperage but the solenoid is not yet activated. You press the go pedal, key on, cart in gear, the solenoid should read 38v between the 2 small terminals and give a loud click.

If the solenoid does not have 38v between the 2 small terminals see whether it has + and no - or, - and not + power.