96 EZGO DCS Alltrax no forward

[Jado27]

1st post. Just picked up a golf cart and new to the scene. 96 DCS setup with run/maintenance toggle under seat. Cart does have a lift with 20" tires.

My cart intermittently won't go forward, and it's getting worse and worse.
Reverse is great always. Bought cart cheap with 6 dead Trojans.
Just put brand new battery -large 48v lithium ion, has blue Alltrax not sure the model number, also pretty new looking solenoid, white-Rodgers 70-120224

When I switch to reverse the solenoid clicks, (without pedal) but not when I switch to forward, however solenoid does click in forward when peddle pressed but no movement/acceleration. Also the Alltrax will flash a Red light twice when nothing happens instead of normal solid green or flash with working reverse.

When the cart does decide to run in forward I do here the solenoid click immediately when F/R moves to forward without pedal.

I'm thinking bad controller? Or bad micro switch? In reverse one micro engages but I see in forward both micro switches engage. And yes the F/R plate is on tight.
When I first tested the cart with 3x12v batteries the forward acceleration was shaky and intermittent. But Cart has been running great on a 48v 100ah Li-ion setup but the lover the voltage drops the more the forward issue becomes. I'm currently at 42v.
Is this too much voltage for the solenoid? Or perhaps not enough amps. Solenoid Rates 50amp/200inrush open, 30/30 closed but if it works fine in reverse?

Can I swap terminals on the Alltrax to try and get F/Reverse to move me forward?
Just get new micro switches and verify good ground/power?
What am I missing?

[Brob1969]

Take a good look at the FNR switch. First give it an external visual inspection of the cable connections. Any discoloration is a good indicator of excess heat. Look around the terminals for any signs of warpage; this is a pretty common area where the terminals generate excess heat and melt the surrounding material allowing the contact to sink in and no longer make good contact. The switch comes apart easily with the removal of the 9/16" nut in the center. It's important that the contacts be clean and lined up properly.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

[BBBHC]

I'm no electrical genius, to put it mildly. I'm in the middle of a lithium build my self. In my research and talking with others about the system, it was recommended to me, to use this solenoid. https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/p...lenoid-48-volt

It may be possible that your solenoid is not able to handle the amps that your lithium batteries are capable of delivering? I'm not sure about this, but it may be worth looking into. Hopefully one of the electrical gurus will chime in...

[SHRINER]

there is a stickie at the top of this forum, dcs troubleshooting

[rib33024]

The Forward / reverse switch on your cart does not have nuts and studs to heat up and warp. Your F/R switch only has two micro switches. Look and see if the arms on the micro switches are good and not bent or a bad switch

[kgsc]

DCS cart’s fnr switch is similar to a series cart when it comes to micro switches. In forward one is on. In reverse they both are on. If the cart goes into reverse then the switches are okay. Still make sure the switch on the drivers side is closing. Look at the wiring diagram and make sure you are getting pack voltage at the yellow wire when pedal is pressed and in forward.

[scottyb]

The solenoid # you listed comes up 36v 50amps , aka stock solenoid for 275 amp controller.
If you have this solenoid it does need to be upgraded to SW180 200 amps. The Alltrax fault blink code you listed is low voltage. This is consistent with a solenoid failure if the battery pack voltage is above 36v and holding.
Lower prices are available at our store.

[JohnnieB]

The two microswitches on the DCS F/R assembly are more correctly called Run and Reverse. And the Run switch is activated by different lobes on the rotating cam when the direction control lever is in the Forward and Reverse positions, so there could be a mechanical problem. If the cam wasn't being rotating all the way to the mechanical stop, or its position misaligned on the direction lever shaft, it might be far enough out of whack to cause F to be inytermittent.

First three attachments show A DCS F/R in F, N & R.

THe DCS F/R can be replaced with a DPDT/Center Off toggle switch, as shown in fourth attachment

[Jado27]

Folks, can't thank you enough for all your quick responses! So much good info here. One of the best forums I've seen yet with data and members.

The F/R Micro switches do sound different from one another when engaged, I'm gonna go ahead and replace, my worry is that the switches aren't very well secured on the plate, I might glue the new ones down. The rear F/R plate that engages the contacts can only go on 2 ways, there is no other adjustment, as the bolt it sits on is slotted.

I also think your on to something with the solenoid, I need a heavier duty setup so might as well get that ordered.

"getting pack voltage at the yellow wire when pedal is pressed and in forward," if your referencing the yellow wire going to the solenoid then yes, getting full battery voltage there in forward or reverse with pedal pressed. (which makes me think faulty solenoid) if no power seen possibly bad controller or faulty F/R signal from micro switches?

Im going to verify voltages, check grounds, replace micro switches and solenoid and will post update, thanks again.

GoEZ

[Jado27]

Update: Forward has still been working intermittently. Worse with colder weather. Reverse working well. Solenoid and power from controller fine until it's not.
I replaced solenoid with heavy duty 48v solenoid. Replaced resister and diode. Cleaned all connections to battery, controller, solenoid, and motor. Still no forward.
When Alltrax ncx300 controller errors when cart doesent go forward, it blinks 5x suggesting "Open Field".
When I reverse F1 and F2 on the controller cart runs great forward when selector in reverse. No reverse now though.

So I have some kind of short in the micro switches or forward function in the controller right? The only thing that makes sense is the micro switch for reverse is faulty and not fully disengaging. Producing open circuit when trying to go forward.
If this is true then disconnecting reverse micro switch would let forward work right? If not then forward is shorting out inside controller?
Thoughts?
Should I just replace the micro switches? I don't want to waste the money if the controller is bad, as I could just make my own toggle for the f1/f2 switches.
Perhaps I could check resistance on switches.