Solenoid and charge questions

[mike_dmt]

As I've been quick to post on here, my '88 is up and running. Probably have 15 miles and two rounds of golf on it.

Questions are these:

I only seem to have "two" forward speeds. There's no smooth half pedal. It clicks twice, and starts to roll at what feels like half speed, and then next is full pedal, which yields about 13 m.p.h.. as expected.

Out of the solenoid carts, which ones are which? And a dumb question, how do I test them?



Second:

I'm thinking my batteries are getting a full charge. I see 39v pretty regularly after sitting on the charger until it shuts itself off.

After 5 miles or so (a round of golf) my DVM shows 38.5. Is that a decent drop for the useage? Some hills, two people, heavy golf bags, beer...etc...


Sorry for the long thread...

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Starting with the drivers side solenoid you have a master solenoid and four speed solenoids. The master works. If it didn't, it wouldn't run. You should feel a sudden jerk or burst of speed with each click. For each click that you don't feel an increase, the solenoid is bad. You can test them by laying a hammer on them across the two large posts. Be careful not to touch the small posts with the hammer while you do it. The hammer will essentially bypass the solenoid when you do it and you'll feel the corresponding speed increase for whichever solenoid you jump

[mike_dmt]

Ok. So if I'm understanding you right, I'm essentially bypassing the microswitches, so the pedal does'nt need to be pushed while jumping the terminals?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

No, you're not bypassing microswitches. You're bypassing solenoids. Take the seat off of it. Put it in neutral and lift the microswitch up with your finger. Depress the pedal to make sure you actually hear five clicks. If you do, it will confirm that all of your microswitches are working. Release microswitch and put it in reverse (easier for testing than forward because it's a slower speed). Press the pedal until you hear the first click. This is the master turning on. Press it further and you should hear the 2nd click. This should be the first speed solenoid (second from driver's side) If it starts to run on the 2nd click, that solenoid is good. Once you get to the third click, you should feel another burst of speed. If that happens, it's good. If it doesn't, keep your foot in the same place and lay a hammer across the 3rd solenoid. If you feel the burst of speed, that solenoid is bad. You've bypassed it and proven that if you carry power from the buss bar to the resistor coil via the 3rd speed solenoid, it will, in fact increase the speed. Repeat the same process with the remaining solenoids. I know it may be difficult to do this testing with the vehicle rolling. I like to use the brake. Apply just enough brake to keep the car from moving. Once the next solenoid clicks, it'll overpower your braking and begin to roll.. Apply more brake to stop the cart, apply throttle for next speed, apply more brake, and so on.....

[mike_dmt]

I see. I understand now..

Thanks for the help, and having read that, I'm almost sure I've got at least one bad solenoid.

[mike_dmt]

Just found a few minutes to goof with it. There are supposed to be 5 clicks from the MS's when the key is off, right?

Mine goes 3 clicks, dead spot, click. So I'm guessing its a MS?

Whats the easy way to pull the box apart to check them?

[mike_dmt]

Alright. Got it. I have not only a bad solenoid, but a bad switch too. So I was basically running on the 2nd and the 4th speeds only.

Explains the herky jerky starts.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by mike_dmt

Alright. Got it. I have not only a bad solenoid, but a bad switch too. So I was basically running on the 2nd and the 4th speeds only.

Explains the herky jerky starts.