2007 club car precedent won't move

hound dog · 07-01-2017, 01:51 AM

I have a 2007 club car precedent 48 volt, the resistor between the solenoid wires started to get very hot so i unhooked the resistor and let cool down. I waited for a bit hooked the resistor back up and the same thing began to happen. The solenoid will click on and off when pressing and depressing the pedal the cart will not move. After looking over everything I hooked the resistor back up and its not getting hot anymore but the cart will not move, the solenoid still clicks when pressing the pedal. Does anyone know if this could be a bad controller? Thanks in advance for any advice on what to check.

PingEye3 · 07-01-2017, 08:15 AM

Sounds like some badly burned contacts in the solenoid.

hound dog · 07-01-2017, 07:41 PM

Ok thanks for the reply, maybe I will try the solenoid first.

hound dog · 07-01-2017, 10:42 PM

Is there any possible way to check to see if the controller is bad?

PingEye3 · 07-02-2017, 11:14 AM

Since you mentioned that the solenoid is responding to the pedal switch input, that tells me that the controller is powered up and functioning to that point. There is just no juice to the motor, thus my thoughts on the solenoid. Hopefully one of or more of sergio, tahoedawg or cgtech will also respond.

hound dog · 07-02-2017, 07:45 PM

Ok thanks I will try the solenoid before anything else, I hate to spend that much on a new controller if that isn't the problem. The new resistor I bought ohm's out at 240 ohms is that sufficient for that cart?

TahoeDawgZ71 · 07-02-2017, 09:16 PM

I think you have a motor problem. Can you disconnect the batteries, flip to TOW mode, and disconnect all four wires from the motor? When you have them disconnected, take a multimeter and set it to the Diode test function to test for continuity. Most meters will beep when they detect continuity on this setting. Check for continuity between the A1 and A2 posts, and again from F1 to F2. You should get continuity on both of these tests. If it passes both tests, check for continuity from each post to the frame (case) of the motor to check for an internal short. You should not have continuity on any of these posts to the frame of the motor.

hound dog · 07-02-2017, 09:21 PM

I have already disconnected the motor and checked it the motor checks out good. I did the test just the way you explained.

TahoeDawgZ71 · 07-02-2017, 09:27 PM

Then it's a controller issue. It's very rare though for the controller to fail but still be able to control the solenoid. Not unheard of, just rare. There are capacitors in the controller that need to be charged at all times. By keeping these capacitors charged, it prevents a sudden rush of power when the solenoid closes (clicks on). Continuous usage of a solenoid without a pre-charge resistor will damage the capacitors in the controller. That's why Club Car uses those resistors. They slowly bleed power "around" the solenoid, rather than through it. This keeps just enough power running to the controller to keep the capacitors juiced up. When an internal short develops in the controller, it creates an increased load that is attempting to draw far more power than the pre-charge resistor can provide. That's why it's getting hot. There's way too much power trying to pass through it and get to the controller. I don't think you have a solenoid issue. The only way that a bad solenoid can make the pre-charge resistor heat up is if you're trying to run the car. With the cart in non-running status, there's no way for you to drive it and force the resistor to heat up. If the resistor is heating up while the cart is sitting still, the solenoid is not your issue. 99% of the time, it's a controller problem. The only reason I asked you to check your motor in this instance is because the controller still has the ability to control the solenoid, which like I mentioned above, is rare. But with a motor that passes the test, you'll definitely need a controller. I recommend the Alltrax XCT300 amp controller if you're not trying to break the bank. It offers much more performance over the OEM unit and does not require a wire or a solenoid upgrade to use it.

kgsc · 07-03-2017, 08:23 AM

Key words here are does the resistor get hot with the cart just sitting. If yes, like David said probably controller. If not solenoid.

07-01-2017, 01:51 AM	#1
hound dog Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 13	2007 club car precedent won't move I have a 2007 club car precedent 48 volt, the resistor between the solenoid wires started to get very hot so i unhooked the resistor and let cool down. I waited for a bit hooked the resistor back up and the same thing began to happen. The solenoid will click on and off when pressing and depressing the pedal the cart will not move. After looking over everything I hooked the resistor back up and its not getting hot anymore but the cart will not move, the solenoid still clicks when pressing the pedal. Does anyone know if this could be a bad controller? Thanks in advance for any advice on what to check.
hound dog Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 13

07-01-2017, 08:15 AM	#2
PingEye3 Gone Wild Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 1,308	Re: 2007 club car precedent won't move Sounds like some badly burned contacts in the solenoid.

07-01-2017, 07:41 PM	#3
hound dog Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 13	Re: 2007 club car precedent won't move Ok thanks for the reply, maybe I will try the solenoid first.
hound dog Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 13

07-01-2017, 10:42 PM	#4
hound dog Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 13	Re: 2007 club car precedent won't move Is there any possible way to check to see if the controller is bad?
hound dog Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 13

07-02-2017, 11:14 AM	#5
PingEye3 Gone Wild Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 1,308	Re: 2007 club car precedent won't move Since you mentioned that the solenoid is responding to the pedal switch input, that tells me that the controller is powered up and functioning to that point. There is just no juice to the motor, thus my thoughts on the solenoid. Hopefully one of or more of sergio, tahoedawg or cgtech will also respond.

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07-02-2017, 07:45 PM	#6
hound dog Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 13	Re: 2007 club car precedent won't move Ok thanks I will try the solenoid before anything else, I hate to spend that much on a new controller if that isn't the problem. The new resistor I bought ohm's out at 240 ohms is that sufficient for that cart?
hound dog Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 13

07-02-2017, 09:16 PM	#7
TahoeDawgZ71 revolutiongolfcars.com Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Golf Car Capital of The World... Augusta, Georgia Posts: 10,224	Re: 2007 club car precedent won't move I think you have a motor problem. Can you disconnect the batteries, flip to TOW mode, and disconnect all four wires from the motor? When you have them disconnected, take a multimeter and set it to the Diode test function to test for continuity. Most meters will beep when they detect continuity on this setting. Check for continuity between the A1 and A2 posts, and again from F1 to F2. You should get continuity on both of these tests. If it passes both tests, check for continuity from each post to the frame (case) of the motor to check for an internal short. You should not have continuity on any of these posts to the frame of the motor.

07-02-2017, 09:21 PM	#8
hound dog Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 13	Re: 2007 club car precedent won't move I have already disconnected the motor and checked it the motor checks out good. I did the test just the way you explained.
hound dog Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 13

07-02-2017, 09:27 PM	#9
TahoeDawgZ71 revolutiongolfcars.com Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Golf Car Capital of The World... Augusta, Georgia Posts: 10,224	Re: 2007 club car precedent won't move Then it's a controller issue. It's very rare though for the controller to fail but still be able to control the solenoid. Not unheard of, just rare. There are capacitors in the controller that need to be charged at all times. By keeping these capacitors charged, it prevents a sudden rush of power when the solenoid closes (clicks on). Continuous usage of a solenoid without a pre-charge resistor will damage the capacitors in the controller. That's why Club Car uses those resistors. They slowly bleed power "around" the solenoid, rather than through it. This keeps just enough power running to the controller to keep the capacitors juiced up. When an internal short develops in the controller, it creates an increased load that is attempting to draw far more power than the pre-charge resistor can provide. That's why it's getting hot. There's way too much power trying to pass through it and get to the controller. I don't think you have a solenoid issue. The only way that a bad solenoid can make the pre-charge resistor heat up is if you're trying to run the car. With the cart in non-running status, there's no way for you to drive it and force the resistor to heat up. If the resistor is heating up while the cart is sitting still, the solenoid is not your issue. 99% of the time, it's a controller problem. The only reason I asked you to check your motor in this instance is because the controller still has the ability to control the solenoid, which like I mentioned above, is rare. But with a motor that passes the test, you'll definitely need a controller. I recommend the Alltrax XCT300 amp controller if you're not trying to break the bank. It offers much more performance over the OEM unit and does not require a wire or a solenoid upgrade to use it.

07-03-2017, 08:23 AM	#10
kgsc Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Aiken, SC Posts: 13,146	Re: 2007 club car precedent won't move Key words here are does the resistor get hot with the cart just sitting. If yes, like David said probably controller. If not solenoid.

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