36v TXT hot forward reverse

[scottyb]

When the studs get hot they soften the plastic housing which has seats machined into it for the lug end of the studs. Basically what happens is the stud gets hot ( for whatever reasons) and it heats the plastic seat. The stud then sinks into the plastic reducing the contact with the rotating half which houses the other contact points. The more the contact is reduced the hotter the connection gets which increases the problem. And tightening the stud nut pulls the contact into the melted seat away from the rotating cam contacts.

That's why I say if the stud has changed color put the F&R in the trash can

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by Ralpha3313

Although the intermittent power drop seems to have been fixed by tightening.

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If it’s still heating up, something isn’t right and your losing energy in the form of heat. I agree with Nuke about not spending funds unless needed, but the contactor takes the worry out of checking that thing and gives you a much easier way of shifting. Plus it makes a really cool click sound when it engages.

[Ralpha3313]

Well guys... the good news is the SW202 is installed and working, and not be heating up... Bad news... the original Problem still seems to exist. Going up hills motor cuts out.. now it seems that occaisonaly when it cuts out the solenoid is not clicking... Other times it will click and still not move.

Also once it cuts out it will leave me on the side of the road for a few minutes before it will move again.

Any ideas where to start at this point?

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[DaveTM]

From my amateur judgement, since you have "fixed" the previous heat point, there is something that is drawing a lot of power.....to the point of some heat safety device kicking out.

I know there are threads here on "how to" hook up your multimeter to determine the power draw when your driving.

I can only assume that if you put the rear axle in the air (jack stands and\or blocks) if you spin one of your rear tires (by hand.....not under power) that the axel appears to spin freely and not be difficult to turn. I think that "test" would rule out issues with the mechanical part of the drive train.

But testing how much current (amps) your cart is drawing under a load may help to narrow it down.

Just thinking out loud.

FWIW

[jhill_42]

How much does it cost to do this upgrade?

[DaveTM]

Originally Posted by jhill_42

How much does it cost to do this upgrade?

If you mean the heavy duty reversing contactors, go to ScottyB's website. He sells them (that's where I got mine) and his prices (and availability) will be shown there.

[scottyb]

https://www.cartsunlimited.net/rever...ontactors.html