EZGO Solenoid/ controller problem???

[RyanHall96]

I I’ve what I was told to be a 1998 model 36 volts ezgo cart, it has new battery’s in it and I was told it had an upgraded controller but I’m not shure, the controller has 3 blades and one plug with 4 wires in it, it does not Have a tow switch, so what happend is it was running when I got it but as soon as i fliped the switch the solenod would click and it would operate properly, it didn’t have a diode or a resistor so I ordered them and I put the resistor in backward not paying attention and when I flipped the switch i seen a spark and now she’s dead in the water, I have since then replaced the f/r switch, new diode and resirtor, 2 new solenoids, micro pedal switch and bypassed the reed valve but it still does nothing so I’m stuck any one know what I might have fried or what to look at??

[scottyb]

I'm assuming it is a series cart. I would have suggested the pedal box micro switch (ms) initially. You have eliminated a bunch of possible problems. Do you have a multi-meter? Can you test the F&R ms to see if they have power in and out ?

[nickdalzell1]

a resistor cannot be placed the wrong way/backwards. However, a DIODE can. Usually takes out the pedal micro switch in the process of letting the smoke out of the diode.

A series car usually (TXT, Medalist) has color coded wires on the small terminals of the solenoid, often two black on one and two red on another. Silver band on diode should be pointing towards the two red wires.

Doubtful the controller is fried, as the solenoid is not even clicking at this point. Click and no run and verifying the F/R is good is usually what points to a bad controller or motor.

There are only a few things that can interrupt the solenoid activation circuit and make it not click, the micro switch in the pedal group, key switch failure, micro switch on the F/R board, reed switch, and any wire connecting these. It is possible letting the smoke out of the diode caused enough of a short on the smaller coil of the solenoid causing an open circuit, but that is not common.

[RyanHall96]

Ok and yes I do have a meter what points on the f/r micro switches do I need to test? I am new to electric golf carts but I think this one was rigged up and I’m trying to get it back right now, I replaced the whole F/R assembly but I ges it is possible it has a bad micro switch bran new, I’m just puzzled because once it sparked and stoped working I stared replacing all the thinks I have posted that iv done and it’s still not working but hopefully it is just a bad part that I’ve replaced.

[scottyb]

Plane and simple = put the blk test lead on the battery main (-). Put the red test lead on the main (+). Reading should be 36+ volts. That is the base reading.
Now move red to the micro switch terminals. you should find the base voltage there. If no that is the problem. follow the wire to the charger receptacle or battery main (+) and repair the problem... (reed switch/fuse/connection)
Once power is restored to F&R switches (ms) the solenoid should click and the cart should run.
If you have power at the F&R micro switches - shift into F and see if the switch works = power now at both switch terminals.
If power at both switch terminals when key on cart in gear pedal down and still no click suspect wiring or solenoid activation fault.
Check/verify 36v + at one small solenoid terminal and 36v (-) at the other = if yes and no click the solenoid is bad.
If solenoid clicking but no power on both big terminals (with resistor removed) the the solenoid has failed

[RyanHall96]

Ok I will post some pictures of what I have, on the F/R micro switch the red from the charger port is on the NC part of the switch and the green from the switch is on the common part of the switch is that correct? With how it’s wired now with the diode in place when I push the pedal both sides of the little terminals on the solinoid have 38.15 volts but no clicking and the 2 big terminals on the solenoid the battery side has 38.18 volts and the other side has 37.47 with out pushing in the pedal, and the black wire on the positive terminal on the little post of the solenoid goes to the battery meter and the meter only comes on when the pedal is pushed

[RyanHall96]

One more thing I left out I’m not shure if it makes a difference but when the cart was running the directional switch that I actually physically move to go in forward or reverse is backwards, when it was running the knob in reverse was actually forward and forward was reverse.

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by RyanHall96

One more thing I left out I’m not shure if it makes a difference but when the cart was running the directional switch that I actually physically move to go in forward or reverse is backwards, when it was running the knob in reverse was actually forward and forward was reverse.

The flip flopped f/r is probably just a matter of switching the large cables around, or swapping them at the motor. That f/r is just a plate with 4 contacts on it that rotate when you move the lever.

I don’t know enough to be much help but I have a 2001 series cart that was very similar to yours before I upgraded it. You’ve already mentioned that it appears someone made changes to the wiring. I do know that the meter should come on with the key, as originally wired. I think a diagram of the solenoid activation circuit would help you. A search should be able to find it.

[orangeman6]

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html

This is from the stickies. Scroll down a bit and you’ll find the series diagram. Scotty wants you to trace pack voltage from the start to the solenoid.

[orangeman6]

I found the one from johnnieb that he highlighted.