2012 Precedent "PH" Soleniod Clicks but Not Moving

[ahoys66]

Hi all,
I bought a NON-Working STOCK 2012 Club Car Precedent off Ebay in hopes of making Modifications over time once I figure out the ins and outs of what is working and what is not. I have been Troubleshooting using procedure found here in the forum and I finally got the Solenoid to click every time I press the pedal with Run/tow in RUN, Key ON and FWD selected (rear Wheels off the ground). The problem is the wheels are not turning. If once I hear the Solenoid click I rotate the rear tire by hand a tiny bit, the motor will then start spinning the wheels and then the more I press the GO pedal the faster the wheels spin(assuming Good MCOR). If I try this in REV the buzzer comes on but I cannot get the motor to engage. Am I looking at a MOTOR, Controller or other issue here? I would like to get a new ALLTRAX/HD Solenoid Combo for the faster speed in the future but want to make sure all the other components are good first. Batteries are charging fine and showing 49+ Volts (battery indicator light appears to be burnt out). So far I changed the Run Tow Switch(had continuity ON/OFF) and Reset the OBC ( i think it had OBC lockout initially as I could only get the Solenoid to Click immediately after removing the Charging cord) Any help is much appreciated.

[LukeL]

Sounds to me like an issue with the motor brushes. Has it been flooded? Have you taken the motor apart?

Full charge is 50.9 volts. Make sure you have more than 49.


Club Car DS driver’s club #59

[NoleFan4Ever]

I am w/Luke, that identifies the brushes as once you get the motor rotating it goes. Pull the motor off and perform an inspection.

[Sergio]

In my opinion, having to turn the wheels by hand before the motor goes is more related to the Field driver on the Controller being bad.

Did you try rotating the wheels forward as well when the FNR was in Reverse to see if it spins forward (meaning no field driver at all)?

[ahoys66]

Thanks for the Replies,
LukeL, I have suspected it may have been flooded at least up to the motor? (seller said rear tires were only in a couple inches of water as his son tried to use it to pull a jet ski out of the water). The batteries were over 50 Volts at the time I started testing but it has been a couple of weeks since it was on the charger since i have it all torn apart. The Batteries are Duracell brand and a couple years old. Probably have to replace them too once i have a running cart.

Sergio, when in FNR switch is in R it feels like the motor braking is on an is hard to rotate the tire in either direction.

Troubleshooting has been difficult since initially sometimes voltages were present and sometimes they were not during the test procedures. (who knows maybe the whole cart was under water at one point). I figured worst case I would have to replace MOTOR/Controller/Solenoid/ with Upgrades and batteries all at once but since i got some life out of it i was trying to narrow it down to save some money for things like Lift kit, wheels and tires.

[ahoys66]

I just found a thread from 49erRider with a video that his cart is doing is doing the same thing as mine. I am leaning towards the controller since that is what he replace.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ues-video.html

[LukeL]

Flooded up to the motor... makes me suspect motor brushes for sure! I’d take that thing apart. Hopefully it’s not a mess. I’ve seen some real bad cases with flooded motors.


Club Car DS driver’s club #59

[Fairtax4me]

Id pull the motor out and check inside and check the brushes just to be sure it isn’t fudged from having water in it. It’s a couple hours work, but it doesn’t cost anything.
Also, have you checked the rear axle oil for water contamination?

Sounds like controller to me, but I’m sure there’s a way to test that to be sure before replacing it.

[WalterM6]

Measure between A1 & A2 If you measure an open your brushes are bad. If you have continuity the field is bad like Sergio said. While your there check for continuity between F1 & F2, should be low resistance. Also check each terminal to the case. They should all read open.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by WalterM6

Measure between A1 & A2 If you measure an open your brushes are bad. If you have continuity the field is bad like Sergio said. While your there check for continuity between F1 & F2, should be low resistance. Also check each terminal to the case. They should all read open.

Walt I think you typo'd or meant something else. You do want continuity between A1 and A2, but you do not want it between A1 and the motor case. (or maybe I am misunderstanding your thiught....)

And OP, the brushes can be faulty and still make contact as they are spring loaded and only have to touch to make the circuit complete but does not have enough surface area to carry the load. This is why a push or roll gets you moving. Have had this happen many times before. Not to say that is surely your problem, but it is a symptom that falls under ts possibilities....