EZGO TXT Stopped Running - Please Help!

[Jwade79]

I cut off the connector but still no power to the F/R switch. I put the neg end of probe to neg end of main neg, then put the pos probe to the pos of receptacle and the twisted wire where I removed the connector - had about 55v at both locations. Could it be my FR Switch? I attached a photo of the connector removed and the FR switch wires.

[JohnnieB]

It would have been nice to know your cart has a reversing contactor, I've been troubleshooting a cart with a stock F/R switch assembly.

Hopefully you have the installation instructions that came with the reversing contactor kit, or the kit you installed came from Carts Unlimited.

[Jwade79]

The kit did come from carts unlimited. I’m really lost at this point other than guessing it’s my FR Switch

[JohnnieB]

One of the three wires on the F/R rocker switch (maybe labeled C or Com) ought to have 55V on it if that is the voltage on the red wire from the reed switch bypass.

That voltage probably goes through the key switch and the pedal switch before it goes to the F/R rocker switch.

Attached is the instructions of a CU reversing contactor kit. All the kits will be wired something like this, but maybe not is same order.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Jwade79

The kit did come from carts unlimited. I’m really lost at this point other than guessing it’s my FR Switch

Ok, voltage starts at reed switch bypass, goes to key switch, then to pedal switch, then to solenoid coil tab and then to common terminal on the F/R rocker switch.

If you have voltage on the Common terminal and none going out, than the F/R switch is bad, but you gotta get voltage to it first.

[Jwade79]

I really appreciate your help and sorry for sounding like such a block head. I’m still trying to figure out everything electrical related. So I have the following questions:

1. Key switch - I have a Harley Davidson ignition that has a harness with no exposed areas to check for voltage. And the blue and green wires are all protected by butt connectors. The green wire leads to the gas pedal which also has no volt testing area. So, what is best way to check for key switch issue?

2. Would the pedal switch be the small box with cylinder that gets pressed up when brake pedal is not engaged?

3. Solenoid coil tab - not sure what you mean by “coil tab” but I checked power at the two main terminal posts and got a voltage of around 55v on both.

4. Rocker switch - is the common terminal the middle one? I checked power on all three terminals and in all three positions and got no voltage.

[JohnnieB]

1. If they are the crimp type butt connectors, you can straighten out a small paperclip and slide it in far enough to touch the metal connection and then measure the voltage on the paperclip. Otherwise, you have tpo go to the other end of the wires to and from the switch.

2. Pedal switch and ITS sensor are in the pedal box under the floormat. Follow the linkage back from the accelerator pedal.

3. There are several makes/models of solenoids used in carts and I don't know which one you have. However they all have a set of high current contacts and a electromagnetic coil that closes them. The two large studs with heavy cables on them are for the high current contacts aren't part of the circuit we are troubleshooting at this time. The coil terminals are the smaller ones with thinner gauge wires on them. There can be two small studs or tabs, or four tabs as show on the CU installation diagram I posted. We are looking for voltage on the small studs or tabs that connect to the coil.

4. Center is typically the Common terminal, but I've seen switches that the C terminal is one of the end ones. Since there isn't any voltage on any of them, the problem isn't the F/R rocker switch.

In review, there is voltage get6ting to the wire that goes to the keyswitch and there isn't voltage getting the the F/R rocker switch, so there is an open someplace between those two points.

The pedal switch in the box under the floormat is a likely suspect, since it open and closes every time you push/release the pedal.

[Jwade79]

I’ve located the pedal box. The box is pretty much covered in rust and looks to be a challenging to remove, especially given the rust. Is removal of the box the only way to check for voltage? It looks like that’s the case as I can’t find any locations to check voltage .

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Jwade79

I’ve located the pedal box. The box is pretty much covered in rust and looks to be a challenging to remove, especially given the rust. Is removal of the box the only way to check for voltage? It looks like that’s the case as I can’t find any locations to check voltage .

Don't have to remove the pedal box, just take the top off.

Getting the side covers off so you can lift the floormat is the hard part. I used Kano Kroil on all the rusted bolts I've had to loosen on my cart and cars.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Don't have to remove the pedal box, just take the top off.

Getting the side covers off so you can lift the floormat is the hard part. I used Kano Kroil on all the rusted bolts I've had to loosen on my cart and cars.

I used an impact driver, the type you hit with a hammer.