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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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01-03-2019, 11:14 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 2
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Marathon has a different wiring than schematic
I have a 1991 EZGO Marathon (mfg code 10M91) that has given me a lot of wiring trouble. I want to strip it and start fresh, but in looking at diagrams, they don't match the cart. I want to make sure I'm using the right diagram and don't burn something up. From my research, I believe this is the version I should be using:
Does that seem right? my concern is that my solenoid microswitch doesn't seem to have 3 positions. Here's the backstory on the cart, which might be the death of me: It belonged to my uncle, and the F/R switch burnt out. I got it from him, replaced F/R switch, bought all new batteries and was ready to roll. A week later, I smelled some burning plastic and found that one of the battery terminals had completely melted off - there was a silver dollar sized hole and I could see the plates in the batteries. Interstate said I didn't have the connection tight and wouldn't warranty a week old battery. I know i tightened the connections, but unfortunately, research on this forum backed up what they said, and I bought a new battery. Well that episode got the cart hot enough to melt the plastic on the solenoid, so I replaced it and got all new battery cables. While hooking everything back up, something was backfeeding into the cart and when I tried to connect the F/R switch to a positive battery terminal, it would spark. I made a mistake and touched something with my wrench and showered sparks, dropped the wrench and it contacted pos & neg of one battery and welded itself to the terminals. Another battery burst into flame and burnt off another terminal (not the same one as before). So, now I'm in it for 8 batteries, a solenoid, f/r switch and new cables. I could have bought a newer cart for the money I've put into this thing. Given all that, that's why I think it's best to strip all of the control wiring out of the cart and reinstall it to factory specs. When I got the cart, it was spliced in and out and didn't make a whole lot of sense, but it worked. Also, anyone in or around Sarasota Florida who is more knowledgeable than me - I'd love to bring the cart over and get this thing done with someone who knows what they are doing. |
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01-03-2019, 08:24 PM | #2 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 2
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Re: Marathon has a different wiring than schematic
This is more how my F/R switch is wired. If you look, the solenoid and batterypositive are flipped on the F/R switch.
Can anyone give me insight as to which micro switch contacts I should be using? This diagram doesn't specify and I am having trouble working it out. On a side note, do the microswitches only exist to make the buzzer go off? or when the cart reverses polarity, it need to switch which side is contacting the positive on the F/R switch? Last edited by Bare a cooter; 01-03-2019 at 11:03 PM.. Reason: more context on M/S posts |
01-04-2019, 08:45 AM | #3 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,358
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Re: Marathon has a different wiring than schematic
This is a simple cart. Keep it simple. The F&R has 2 micro switches. Study their trigger (tab) movement. One switch(#1) is triggered in reverse only, one switch (#2) is triggered in both directions. Switch #2 powers the POT micro switch. This switch #3 functions as off/on when the pedal is depressed. 3 terminal micro switches have the option of being wired for on/off or off/on operation. Be sure to use the 2 terminals which function off at rest and on when triggered.(usually the 2 outside terminals leaving the middle terminal bare)
The pedal switch(3) feeds the solenoid activation. I hope this helps. There is more information about this cart on our website |
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burnt, help needed, marathon, schematic, wiring |
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