Rxv loosing charge quickly

[Airplanefixer]

2015 rxv converted from fleet to freedom. Lights and charge gauge installed by dealer. This was an upgrade from a 2009 freedom, my 2017 batteries 1275s went into the 2015. Never a problem with charge and battery issues in the 09. Now I loose 20% charge in 150 yards, it will still climb at 20 mph. It seems to loose charge very quickly when regenerate cycle is is working. But when I let off the go pedal it coastes for what seems longer than it should. I tested specific gravity and all four batteries average 1275, no battery has more than a 30 point spread. Just bought this month and I need yalls input.

[cgtech]

Sounds like you should have done the 6x 8v conversion. T-1275 class batteries are hopeless, from the best brands, or the cheapest ones. You should know that the factory "gas gauge" style meter is not even looking at the pack voltage, it is only displaying what the motor controller's estimation of charge level is at (and "E" is actually SOC at 25%). No matter tho, because the controller goes into "limp home mode" at 20% SOC anyway. I guess I did assume you had the factory "gas gauge" style meter, not the 10-led bar graph meter added by some people. These 10-led meters are cloned so many times by China, it makes the original Curtis 10-led bar graph energy meter look good (and its not, it only "kinda works" when you have healthy, evenly balanced batteries).

[Airplanefixer]

Gauge is not led,installed by dealer.

[nickdalzell1]

Our experience is quite different regarding gauges CG, the car is barely rolling once the guage reads 50% or 1/4 the gauge. Never gets to where the red light comes on before the car is undrivable. I've seen some read 3/4 'tank' when the handheld reports SOC at 10%

[cgtech]

Weak batteries! Even ones that test good on the legit Lester discharge machine (80+ minutes). They perform ok at 56a draw, but carts require more than that, and they suck in real-world use. It's so crappy, they pass "discharge test", but don't perform real world (that's hard to warranty without lieing). The T-1275 class battery is notorious for this in my neck of the woods. Batteries that "pass" the traditional test giving Curtis codes of "undervoltage cutback" a hundred times in a short drive around the 'hood. Battery voltages pegged at 42v, which pisses off a Curtis rxv. Seriously, over a hundred codes in a short trip. Yes I checked the solenoid, cables, ect....... Been seeing new crop of harness corrosion problems too. Logic input voltages getting weird due to corrosion.

[jkredman]

From my experience it was real simple.

4 Trojan T-1275s go from full charge to half charge (according to the LED State of Charge meter) while playing 4 holes; they’re shot!

Time for new batteries!


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[cgtech]

My story plays out just the same with the US battery equipped carts (we had both, and US battery was just a messier battery with same problems), its not just a "trojan thing". Just wanted to clear up any thoughts of "is it just those batteries" thing.

[Airplanefixer]

No thanks 20mph is fine