New Solenoid, Blowing Fuse

[Jhertel07]

That's helpful, I'll check it out. What would happen if the resistor was bad?

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by Jhertel07

That's helpful, I'll check it out. What would happen if the resistor was bad?

Short term, nothing. It allows capacitors inside the controller to stay charged, which minimizes contact pitting in your solenoid. If your is bad, I have one for the cost of shipping.

The resister is the big component between the large posts, and the diode is the smaller one, and the band has to be on the positive side.

[yurtle]

Can you clarify what the two photos you previously attached depict? Which is old and which is new? I assumed the 'sploded one was the new one, but in reexamining the pics, I'm not so sure now.

Is the newer looking solenoid just before it blew up? I don't see the burned marks, but do see a fuse holder opened. And it's yellow, which is 20 amps.

[Jhertel07]

When the fuse blows, i lose f/r response although switch light remains on. I also lose the charge meter display.
I'm ignorant when it comes to electrical problems but if the solenoid is stronger, would i not need a larger fuse?
Bad diode does what?

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by Jhertel07

When the fuse blows, i lose f/r response although switch light remains on. I also lose the charge meter display.
I'm ignorant when it comes to electrical problems but if the solenoid is stronger, would i not need a larger fuse?
Bad diode does what?

Bad diode is bad for the controller. I don't know how long it takes to damage it, but I'd go without a resister before I used a bad diode. I also have one of those, if you need it.

[Jhertel07]

New solenoid is the one installed...orange colored. Old is the brown one sitting on the fender. Brown one actual works still with the burn marks and all

[Jhertel07]

Fuse is on positive line going to the dash. Its in a wiring harness with multi lines. Harness splits from dash to accelerator box in floor under liner

[yurtle]

OK, then ignore much of what I said. I just assumed 'sploded was the bad one. Previous owner did something that possibly lead to him adding fuses where none were before. That being the case, it's possible your new solenoid is bad. You can check how many ohms the coil has.

I think you were trying to ask if a beefier solenoid needs more current in order to close - coil - and the answer is I don't know. There's no need for it to take more, but it may. In any event, if you are blowing a 20 amp fuse, something has gone horribly wrong. The fact that your old one works and you were able to reinstall it, tells me you probably aren't doing anything wrong. I'd suspect the new solenoid has a bad coil.

Why did you buy a new one?

[Jhertel07]

Ok we're on the same page now. Originally, the cart would not respond to accelerator peddle when it was really moist/wet/cold outside. I'm in mississippi so our winters are wet but not extreme cold. Solenoid would click but no response. I saw the burn marks and asked Scotty with cartunlimited and he suggested replacing it. If it was a nice winter day/dry conditions, it did fine. As its warmed up, I haven't had any issues. I bought the larger solenoid and finally got around to swapping it out.

[Jhertel07]

Installed new solenoid, diode, resistor just like old one. Solenoid doesnt even click, just blows the fuse