'05 Precedent - Super Stuck Drive Clutch Removal Tips?

[Rob_C]

Hey Fellas,

Trying to remove the drive/primary clutch from an FE290 and it's more than stuck tight. 7/16AF bolt with 5/16" high tensile rod inside.

Things I have tried so far.
1-Hit it with the rattle gun.
2-Hit it a bit more with the gun.
3-A couple of hard hits on the bolt head with a large hammer.
4-Judicious use of heat at the hub, succeeded in removing the outer portion of the clutch so disassembled the rest of it leaving only the main clutch shaft.
5- Heat again down near where the crank taper is and rap on the 7/16 bolt head.
6-One last hit with the rattle gun.

At this point I'm sure the 5/16" HT bolt has buckled, it sure won't come back out. I have some concern for the crank thread but will cross that bridge when I come to it.

I'd like to put a stick welder electrode in there and zap it to the 5/16 rod to try and remove it but I'm worried about the thread in the clutch hub.

If anyone has a hint on what to try next, I'd appreciate hearing from you. The clutch hub is apparently no longer available or I'd consider the destructive method of removal.

Thanks in advance,
Rob

[Fairtax4me]

Your “high tensile” rod has likely done nothing but mushroom in the middle. It makes a big difference to use the proper clutch puller for this, but in lieu of that, a 3/8” grade 8 bolt Cut to length with the threads ground down is the next best alternative. Anything else will not transfer enough force and will only deform under pressure.

The best option is to heat the hub near the crankshaft, and then smack the end of that center clutch shaft with a hammer. Any direction that is lateral to the clutch, hammer it hard.
Then buy a new clutch.

[meimk]

Agreed. Consider that clutch a loss. Heat it and beat it and assume you're going to have to replace it. I once ended up cutting one off with a angle grinder and a cutting disc. Time consuming & ugly but it came off. Just had to be VERY careful not to damage the crank itself in the process.

[Rob_C]

Thanks for the replies, I used the grade 8 bolt because I couldn't source a clutch tool locally, others seem to have had success using it and the tools I did find were all in in the US. Per #5 in my list, I've already heated the clutch by the crank taper until it was smoking and hit it hard, no dice. I'd use oxy/acetylene but was worried I'd melt the alloy pulley, may have to do that as a last resort.

In my researching overnight I did find someone on here had filled the void inside the clutch hub with water and used hydraulic force via the bolt to pop it off. I figure I'll try that but with oil and if that doesn't work, leave the pressure applied and and heat at the hub again.

Worst case it'll definitely be the grinder, are the Chinese replacement clutches any good?

Thanks again for the replies.

Cheers,
Rob

[CP241]

Aftermarket clutch is around $125 shipped to your door and that clutch has a fair amount of dishing by the looks of it. I’d just cut it or beat it off and buy a new clutch. Call it a day.

Time is worth money and sometimes saving 100 bucks to try and salvage a used up clutch isn’t worth the time or aggravation.

[Rob_C]

You guys must be clairvoyant, filled the clutch shaft with gear oil, tightened the bolt as tight as I dared, applied the torch and it fired the bolt out of the clutch along with the internal threads before I could hit it with the hammer. That sucker is on tight.

I'm in Australia, cheapest aftermarket clutch I can find locally is $A255 with shipping, still not too bad considering with the dollar conversion, US$125 is around $A185 plus international shipping.

Time to break out the grinder and cutting wheel.

Thanks fellas.
Rob

[Rob_C]

Gave it a few hits and decided the grinder was the best option.

4" grinder, thin cutting wheel, two cuts 180' apart through the half sheave and the clutch shaft. Put a cold chisel into the end and flogged it in until the hub cracked in two and fell off. Saves grinding anywhere near the end of the crank and takes a lot less time.

You can see the 5/16" bolt spiralled inside the clutch shaft, won't be using one of those again. Crankshaft thread is fine which is good.

Thought I'd add this and a couple of images to help someone else in the future.

[Springbok]

Wow!

[CP241]

That’s pretty much exactly how I remove clutches that refuse to come off. Works great for wheel bearing inner races as well when they get stuck to the hub

[Rob_C]

Originally Posted by CP241

That’s pretty much exactly how I remove clutches that refuse to come off. Works great for wheel bearing inner races as well when they get stuck to the hub

You bet, grind down close to the shaft and one solid hit with a chisel to crack it. Use a welder for the outer races, weld inside 360', let cool and they almost fall out.