Simplest way to wire in start switch g2

[jims72]

I Have to completely rewire my start switch on the g2. I'm Not wiring in the reverse switch or oil switch or the key switch. Instead of the keyed switch I'm using a toggle. I Need to know the absolute simplest way to wire in the start switch at the pedal. Mind you I also am still using chrysler ignition and VR. Also need to know which field wire (red or green) is the input for the generator. I have red as positive field and green as negative field on the VR. I Have tried to duplicate the original g2 wiring but the cart won't charge. The start gen is good and the field wires read around 5 ohms when checked. I just need a very basic idea of how to wire in the switch at the pedal and where the field wires pick up their voltage.

[Prowlerguy1]

See Attached Drawing.

Unless I am mis-understanding what you're asking for, you:
shouldn't have to mess with V/R wiring.
shouldn't have to mess with S/G wiring.
shouldn't have to mess with anything but the wires to Pedal Switch.

No Muss.
No Fuss.
Done!

R/Todd

[Prowlerguy1]

Also, the same question was asked in this thread a few days ago:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-y...ha-wiring.html

Different model cart, same idea, same wiring.

There are also some other options discussed.

There are also some cautions discussed about setting up the idle to keep from draining the battery.

Good Luck,
Todd

[Prowlerguy1]

OK, so I guess I did misunderstand what you were asking in the original post.

So, instead, I'm going to assume that the original wiring and components you mentioned (key, pedal switch, etc.) are gone.

Then you'll want to do this:
1. Take +12V power off of the downstream side (away from battery) of the positive fuse. Run an appropriate sized wire to one side of your new toggle switch.

2. Run another wire from the other toggle switch connection to each of the following places [+Battery (12Vdc) must be sent to 5 places]:
A. the V/R (red/white wire);
B. the Ignitor (red/white wire);
C. the solenoid of the main starter relay (red/white wire);
D. on the coil (red/white wire);
E. and, on S/G field excitation input (red/white wire becomes little red wire....which is paired with the little green wire coming out of the S/G).

3. Make sure to remove the existing Red/White wires (mentioned above) that were already going to these components.
4. This also assumes that all the components listed above are still installed properly with the remaining wires connected to them as they should be.

That's it. Flip the switch on, the cart will start. Flip the switch off the cart will shut off.

Good Luck,
Todd

[jims72]

Ok . I Do want the stop run switch wired in. The toggle is there for ignition only. So how do I wire in the switch at the pedal to excite the solenoid for the s/g?

[jims72]

You are correct the original wiring is all missing

[Prowlerguy1]

Use the description from Post #4 and the drawing from Post #2.

There is no difference between the Run/Stop switch in the pedal and the ignition switch.

In a new, correctly wired cart the Key Switch sends power to the pedal switch (which is open when it is not depressed).

Then, when you step on the pedal it closes that switch and sends power to the 5 items listed in Post #4.

When you let the pedal up, the Pedal Switch (the run/stop switch) opens again and the cart shuts of (takes power away from the 5 things listed in Post #4).

Hope this helps.
R/Todd

[sho305]

Generally the power wire (likely fused I never followed it) takes full 12v to the key switch, then on to the pedal switch, then back to the solenoid where it splits to also power the ignitor and the coil (all three). So if the pedal or key (wired in series) are off, you get nothing, and both must be on for the cart to run, it is the same wire going through both and both are simple on/off single pole switches the pedal of course is momentary with the pedal. IIRC the rest of the cart is wired between the solenoid/ignitor/VR/generator/fuse block or inline fuses/buzzer&shifter switch.

[jims72]

So on the solenoid which small terminal is positive and which is negative?

[Prowlerguy1]

Originally Posted by jims72

So on the solenoid which small terminal is positive and which is negative?

Not sure. But, you can figure it out with a simple test.

Put a continuity tester (or just an ohm meter) across the main relay contacts (BIG terminals).

Put ground to one of the small solenoid terminals and +12V to the other. If you hear a click and the main contacts have continuity, then you got it correct.....make a note of which was which.

If there is no continuity, then switch the ground and +12V on the small solenoid terminals. Check the continuity. Note which is which.

If neither one gives you continuity across the main relay contacts, then there is a problem with the Main Relay that needs to be investigated.

The solenoid in those relays are rated for continuous duty at +12Vdc - so it should not overheat. If you get the pos & neg wrong, it won't damage the solenoid coil, it just wont push against the spring to close the contacts (it will be doing the opposite of what it needs to do).

R/Todd