Ruff and Tuff solonoid

[racinxs]

Can anyone provide information on this orange solenoid looking item or the resistor next to it. The resistor is burning hot all the time whether key is on or not. Cart wont move and solenoid does not click anymore. Its a 2009 Ruff and Tuff Cruiser. The ITS ohms okay.

[kgsc]

MJZ solenoid but not sure of voltage. Resistor should be 470 ohms if it is a 48 volt cart

[racinxs]

The resistor ohms at 507. I am not real familiar, what is tolerance range?

[kgsc]

Not sure of that answer. What voltage is the cart?

[ThreeCW]

Originally Posted by racinxs

Can anyone provide information on this orange solenoid looking item or the resistor next to it. The resistor is burning hot all the time whether key is on or not. Cart wont move and solenoid does not click anymore. Its a 2009 Ruff and Tuff Cruiser. The ITS ohms okay.

A couple observations from your photo:

1) Not sure but it looks like your resistor wire looks broken near the top solenoid post in your photo

2) A warm resistor is likely not a problem but burning hot is. I don't see any heat damage to this resistor.

3) Also hard to tell from the photo but it looks like your connections to the large solenoid posts could possibly be wrong. Best practice to avoid high resistance and over heating is to have the highest amperage connectors on the bottom (i.e. cables) in direct contact with the solenoid post. Stack the other connectors above the high amp cables in order of expected amperage. No washers should be used in this stack up to avoid extra resistance. One washer can be used (optional) above the connector stack and below the nut.

Are you getting activation voltage across the two small post of the solenoid when you turn your key switch on. With the key switch off, there should be no voltage. With the switch on and the accelerator pedal pushed, you should see activation voltage (36, 48 volt or what ever your cart is wired for).

Also check from each large solenoid post to your battery pack main negative for voltage with the key switch on and the key switch off, with the accelerator pedal pushed. .

If the activation voltage checks out, since your solenoid is not clicking when turning the key on or off, it potentially could be a welded solenoid? Try light tapping with small ball peen hammer on the solenoid to see if it frees up and see if you can get it clicking again with the key switch / accelerator . This would only be a short term solution.

Maybe post a wiring diagram of your cart if you have one.

[Threeput]

A hot resistor across the large terminals of the solenoid is there to pre-charge the capacitors in the controller, when that resistor gets hot it is usually because the controller is shorted, the resistor is trying to supply the motor with power. A bad motor can take out the controller and make the resistor hot....

[racinxs]

ThreeCW, I appreciate your detail. sorry for delay, got busy working and traveling. I printed off the list of things to test.
>solonoid activation from key
There is NO power across terminals when key off but there IS power when key is on. Its full power across main terminals and .4 on small terminals.
>also check each large post to battery
Large post to + battery has full voltage. Large bat post to controller has no power. There is no change when pedal is pushed.

I tried tapping the solenoid with no change.

The Curtis 1268 Controller is flashing a 1-2 which looked up as a Throttle Control Fault. When I first started troubleshooting, the voltage out of the inductive throttle part increased voltage with increased pedal position, but not now.

Threeput, thanks for defining the hot resistor purpose.