Two Blown Sets of Front Bulbs on a Basic Light Kit

[ZackMan]

Originally Posted by Sergio

You can use a 20 amp fuse in the fuse box for the circuit that you are connecting the Harness Blue wire to.

If anything, You may need to remove the existing inline fuse holder off the Blue wire or put a 20 amp fuse in it.

The original 10 amp fuse is sized for a 48v circuit since on the Precedents the converter is usually mounted up front.

Got it and thanks again.

[scottyb]

I get the feeling those penguins will be doing their happy dance again soon

[ZackMan]

Originally Posted by scooterman

Sorry just saw you have 4 12v batteries, my post was irrelevant.

That's okay. Thanks for your response.

[ZackMan]

Originally Posted by Sergio

If You installed the voltage reducer on the back of the cart:

The Blue wire goes to the +12v output of the converter, or an empty fuse spot on your new fuse box.

That blue wire will provide all of the +12v power to the lights, brakes and anything else that is powered off the standard harness.

In your setup, the only thing that should be connected to +48v is the Red wire that goes to the voltage converter.

You do not need to run any extra wires for the front headlight or disconnect anything on the existing headlight switch, it is all already wired to work with the Blue wire having +12v.

If You add a radio or other +12v accessories, then You can run those positive wires to other circuits in the fuse holder.

Sergio,

I connected the blue wire from the bucket harness to an empty fuse terminal on the fuse block; it already had a 15A inline fuse which I moved to the fuse block. I also connected the red wire from the VR directly to the positive terminal of the #1 battery.

I tested voltage at the fuse block on the blue wire and it showed 12.58 volts and I also tested the lone green wire that is from the fuse block and connected to the light switch and it has 12.58 volts also as before.

These are the only wires that I rearranged. Everything else remained the same. I now do not have the red rear lights being activated and the front 6 pin connector is showing no volts. The multimeter just jumps around numerically. By the way, I tested the rear 3 pin connector on the passenger's side and it does the same.

I know I am being a pain in the rear end, but what do you think is happening here? It seems that the bucket harness is not receiving any voltage at all now as it was before.

[ZackMan]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I get the feeling those penguins will be doing their happy dance again soon

I'm anxiously waiting for the penguins to start cutting it up also.

[Sergio]

In Your first post You said the rear lights were coming on, that must mean You either had the Blue wire on a +12v battery connection, or the negative black wire from the harness was not going to pack negative.

I am assuming You had the lights working before so they must have had a +12v connection on the Blue wire.

You should put the headlight switch wire the way it was originally, the only difference now is that instead of the blue wire tapping one battery, it is getting its +12v from the converter.

Edit:

it already had a 15A inline fuse which I moved to the fuse block.

You are not saying You have an empty fuse holder in line with the Blue wire?

[ZackMan]

Originally Posted by Sergio

In Your first post You said the rear lights were coming on, that must mean You either had the Blue wire on a +12v battery connection, or the negative black wire from the harness was not going to pack negative.

I am assuming You had the lights working before so they must have had a +12v connection on the Blue wire.

You should put the headlight switch wire the way it was originally, the only difference now is that instead of the blue wire tapping one battery, it is getting its +12v from the converter.

Edit:


You are not saying You have an empty fuse holder in line with the Blue wire?

The headlight switch wire has been untouched. As I conveyed, the only change from previously was that I attached the blue wire from the bucket harness to the fuse block and the red wire directly to the #1 battery positive terminal. The inline fuse (15A) in the fuse holder was removed and left empty. A 20A fuse was inserted on the fuse block where I connected the blue 10 gauge wire.

As a quick reminder, before this change I spliced the red wire from the VR to the blue wire from the bucket harness and connected both to the #1 battery's positive terminal. In this configuration, both rear red lights were working but the front lamps were blowing. I also had voltage, but 48 plus to the front lamps which caused the blowouts.

I will send you a PM.

[ZackMan]

The front lamps and rear reds are now working. I resinstalled the inline 15A fuse on the blue wire connected to the bucket harness and I also discovered that the green wire, at the pigtail on the VR, had disconnected.

Thanks to all who responded to my dilemna, but special thanks go to both Sergio and scottyb.

Godspeed to all!!!