Club Car Battery/Power loss

[Bucky3d]

1998 Club Car ds 48v system, Club Car Charger Mod 17930 Lester Electric Power Drive
Batteries: Trojan T-875 8V
Battery all Cleaned. Charged for 16 hrs, shows 48.5 volts
All Batteries watered and ok.
6 have 8+ Volts 2 have 7.5 Volts
I unplug and take for a ride, great start, but once I get up a slight grade and about 100 ft, I start loosing power and sounds like slipping clutch.
I am a novice at this, but welcome any suggestions.

[teecro]

Those batteries are shot... Fully charged you should have closest to 51 volts...

[Bucky3d]

teecro:
TY for that info, but I cked again and I take the charger off, it registers 49.7 V
I ck my individual batteries 6 are at 8.6 the two end ones are at 7.6v and 7.5v
How can they all be bad? Or should I charge the two week batteries and then ck?

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by Bucky3d

teecro:
TY for that info, but I cked again and I take the charger off, it registers 49.7 V
I ck my individual batteries 6 are at 8.6 the two end ones are at 7.6v and 7.5v
How can they all be bad? Or should I charge the two week batteries and then ck?

The two lower ones are definitely bad. If they have any age on them you are better off in the long run to replace them all to keep a balanced pack.

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[Bucky3d]

teecro, I thank you.
Would that be normal if I had a full charge, drove about 1000 ft started stuttering and then return, cked the voltage and was 47V vs 49V
Cked each battery and the 8.5v batteries same, but the other as you mentioned are bad. My question is Wouldnt 47v be enough to go?
Could I have something else in the picture?

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by Bucky3d

teecro, I thank you.
Would that be normal if I had a full charge, drove about 1000 ft started stuttering and then return, cked the voltage and was 47V vs 49V
Cked each battery and the 8.5v batteries same, but the other as you mentioned are bad. My question is Wouldnt 47v be enough to go?
Could I have something else in the picture?

It may be enough to go, but when the load is applied you are probably dropping into the 30's or lower. Pack should read around 50.2 idle and only drop 3 or 4 volts under load when you try to go.

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[whit71]

Do you have 16v to 12v reducer for 12 volt accessories? If so that is probably why those 2 batteries are weaker than the rest. Just a suggestion.

[Bucky3d]

Whit71:
You asked - " Do you have 16v to 12v reducer for 12 volt accessories?"

I don't know what the a reducer is and where located to even ck, but I do have
accessories, tail-lites and head-lites. Will that make a diff? I have them turned off, but when I did use them, they never presented a problem. This problem came on just in the last week.

[mgray70]

Connect your DMV to the battery pack main positive and main negative safely so that you can read the voltage while you drive. Post the voltage at rest and while your trying to go. Then you can do the same to each individual battery to find out which one is dropping out. That is the best way to test batteries under a load.

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[teecro]

Originally Posted by Bucky3d

teecro, I thank you.
Would that be normal if I had a full charge, drove about 1000 ft started stuttering and then return, cked the voltage and was 47V vs 49V
Cked each battery and the 8.5v batteries same, but the other as you mentioned are bad. My question is Wouldnt 47v be enough to go?
Could I have something else in the picture?

No 47 volts is NOT enough to go anywhere but the trash heap... Your batteries are a team and each and every one is added to the next and even when added up to 49 volts is NOT enough, at 49 volts they need to be on a charger as that's near 60 % discharged and that's where damage starts settling in... Leave your batteries alone for least 12 hours and report back the voltage of each one...

Remember that 8.49 volts is 100 % and 8.07 is DEAD

B1 X.XX volts
B2 X.XX volts
B3 X.XX volts
B4 X.XX volts
B5 X.XX volts
B6 X.XX volts