Curtis 1205 Controller Problem

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by Muddog

I was hoping to find a way to avoid wiring J1 to key switch, as controller will have power all the time.
I have 375 X 10 precharge resistor.

Curtis recommends a 250Ω for that Controller model, but 375Ω should work.

Connecting J1 to the cold side of the key switch (Blue wire) should work fine since the Controller will not try to send power to the motor until the throttle is at 10% or 12% (depending on your deadband setting) and You already measured the throttle percent at 9% when the solenoid closes.

The only possible issue, or feature depending how you look at it, is if You put the FNR in neutral, press the gas pedal all the way down and then flip it to forward.

Since the controller does not loose power on J1 in neutral (no HPD fault), it would already be at 100% output when the FNR and the Solenoid close.

[Muddog]

The only possible issue, or feature depending how you look at it, is if You put the FNR in neutral, press the gas pedal all the way down and then flip it to forward.

Since the controller does not loose power on J1 in neutral (no HPD fault), it would already be at 100% output when the FNR and the Solenoid close.

I found that out on the first install. I don't care for that feature.
I've called Curtis, but have not heard back from them yet.
Could it be that I'm using 2 instead of all 3 throttle wires be the problem ?
Thanks, Muddog

[Sergio]

I don't think that was the same issue, it would be very hard to do the steps I mentioned unintentionally.

Stepping on the pedal and suddenly going full speed would be a safety issue, but that cannot happen on Controllers with HPD.

Some Curtis OEM Controllers don't have HPD, you can actually disable it on your 1205M, but I did not mention it or would ever recommend it.

This is the safest way to wire that Controller on that cart:

Run a wire from the Cold side of the key switch to FNR micro-switch #1.
The Output of FNR micro-switch #1 goes to Controller J1 and to the MCOR micro-switch.
The Output of the MCOR micro-switch goes to the Solenoid positive activation.

That way if You try to change from forward to reverse without lifting Your foot from the pedal, it will cause an HPD fault and the cart would not move.

[Muddog]

I misquoted.
My issue was with the cart moving during forward/ reverse change with pedal down.
Thanks,Muddog

[Muddog]

Sergio,
Thank you for sharing you valuable knowledge and doing it with kindness and patience.
Spoke with Curtis and could carry on a semi intelligent conversation with the tech thanks to what I learned from you.
He said the only way to run these controllers is with constant 48v to J1 while cart is running, he said that's how they're set up on ezgo's.
I now have a better understanding of reverse input and how to wire it.
I will use you wiring suggestion for F/R safety.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with this forum.
If you're coming down for The Heritage, let me know.
I'd like to get together and buy you a drink or 10.
Thanks,Muddog

[Muddog]

I am trying to wire active reverse. The Curtis wiring diagram shows wire from reverse switch to J5. But it does not show how to wire reverse switch.
I am not sure how to wire to reverse switch for reverse active input.

[Sergio]

You need to Set:

Rev Input / Main Driver parameter = 1

Run a wire from Controller J5 to a micro-switch that closes when the FNR is in Reverse.

Run the other side of the same micro-switch to a +48v source like the key switch power or FNR limit micro-switch.

The reverse buzzer micro-switch on those old models toggled the negative side of the buzzer, so not a good source.

The old 1/2 speed micro switch is not being used and it would work if you remove all of the existing wires and wire it like I described.

[Muddog]

I have a black wire from mcor, green wire from controller and white jumper wire on half speed switch. Do I simply remove these wires and tape them off or should any of the wires be connected to each other or somewhere else ?

[Sergio]

In your first post You said you are not using the green wire from the Controller since you have it set as a 0-5kΩ throttle.

You could re-use the Green wire from FNR to Controller to bring the signal to J5.

I would cut and tape the black wire that goes to the MCOR since that wire could cause issues if shorted against something else.

Just discard the short white wire jumper with the resistor that was used for 1/2 throttle.

[Muddog]

Since that post I was able to use 3 throttle wires. The green and yellow are wired opposite the wiring diagram. I now have green wire on J1 and yellow on J2 and purple to B-. Throttle setting 0. Sorry to confuse.
Can I run another wire off the same micro terminal with the green wire to J5 ?
Run 2 wires off NO terminal, green wire to J1 and another wire to J5 ?
Then jump from green/white wire from forward micro to common on reverse switch.