What is this? MS? Volt Reducer?

[branman1971]

Also, about the vibrator, it does have 2 contacts, but one was not connected to anything when I got into it. I also had one wire that was not connected to anything in the same area. The diagrams do not show a buzzer in the wiring that I can see, and the diagram i got from 93 shows a different looking solenoid and only one MS on the F/R assembly so I went with the other diagram I had which shows same looking solenoid and 2 MS on the F/R assembly and a 3prong accelerator switch, which got warm when i tried to run the cart on 12volts. Worried it might got hot on 36volts.

[yurtle]

Sorry I can't really help on older carts, but maybe others can.

[branman1971]

You did help me Yurtle. Thanks!

[branman1971]

I talked to a local golf cart shop and they told me that I would need 36v for the solenoid to activate. But before i hooked 36v to it I tried 24v and my accelerator switch started to melt the wires attached. I must have something wrong with my re-wiring job. Maybe someone on the forum has the same cart.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by branman1971

That diagram matches very closely, but my setup has 2 microswitches on the F/R assembly, so I went with this one attached.

Your buggy basically has two circuits, one is low current and has small wires and has micro-switches, key switch, a backup buzzer, and the solenoid. Its job is to close the solenoid, which allows the high current circuit to do its thing.

The high current circuit has thicker cables, FNR, solenoid, accelerator switch, resistors, and motor.

Looking at that diagram, Battery positive goes to one side of the solenoid high current terminals, then to the Common of MS-3. NC of MS-3 then goes to the low current side of the solenoid. The other low current side of the solenoid then goes to Normally Closed on MS-2, then on to the key switch. It also goes through MS-1 to a box labeled "B" for beeper, buzzer (?), then on to the NO of MS-3.

Let's ignore the Buzzer/Beeper for now. That wire should NOT bypass the buzzer, but should remain disconnected.

As I understand it, MS-3 is open when the pedal is up, then closes for the other pedal positions.

Check wiring again, and maybe tear apart the accelerator switch and see the condition of the contacts. Clean if needed.

Also, which wires were getting hot? The thicker high current cables or the smaller ones?

[branman1971]

I bypassed buzzer and wired the cart as shown in post #9 of this thread, and the normally open terminal on the MS3 got hot, I think, cause I pulled all the wires off of it. I also found this:

http://pwp.att.net/p/s/community.dll...eid=350227&ck=

It looks like my setup, but for instance the POS cable connects to the F/R switch and the diagram shows POS going to the solenoid. Everything that got hot was on the low voltage side.

[branman1971]

Oh, and MS3 is closed when the pedal is realeased, and opens when the pedal is pressed. I am calling the switch "open" in the pic attached.

[yurtle]

Disconnect your buzzer bypass wire and try again.

MS-3 has three terminals, according to the diagram you said you were following. One side is normally closed NC, one is normally open NO, and one is common C.

[branman1971]

So disconnect the wire going from NO which is the middle terminal on MS3 to MS1?

[yurtle]

Unfortunately, a switch "can" have a NO position, yet once installed, it becomes NC, if that makes sense. If I understand the diagram, it appears that MS-1 is the backup buzzer, so yes, I'd disconnect it.

The buzzer is designed to be placed directly between battery 36 volt + and -. If you try and bypass this with a wire, it will get HOT!