Specific order in which to swap battery cable upgrades?

[ROBinGA]

So I have ordered a set of 4ga battery cables which also includes the 4 ga leads from battery pack to controller. This is for my 96 TXT series cart that has 36 v power currently and stock everything else. I will be upgrading controller/solenoid/FR etc soon and possibly to 48 volt but immediate need is to replace 6 ga wires that I find on my cart. I want to go ahead and swap these out now and as budget allows upgrade other components and 48 volt eventually. So is there a specific order in which to remove cables and replace with new ones? Am I correct in presuming if the key switch is off that nothing is going to electronics? Any tips for a first timer will be appreciated.

[Doctord]

I would disconnect the battery first!

[JohnnieB]

There should be 13 high current cables including the ones on the motor. It is a series current path, so total current goes through all cables equally.

Your presumption is incorrect. The keyswitch is third in a series chain of switches that have to be closed to activate the solenoid, so the two switches prior to it have power to them when key is off.

Also, The resistor across the solenoid contacts applies power to the controller 100% of the time. The controller is not actually powered up, but the filter capacitors are kept charged by the resistor.

There is no particular order to change the cables in, but I would leave either the main positive or main negative cable unhook while doing the rest of them.

Due to the resistor, you may get a small spark when you connect the last cable.

[ROBinGA]

Thanks JonnieB. The set I ordered was only for the batteries and then the battery leads to controller so my set only has 7 total cables - 5 for the batteries then the pos and neg leads to controller. So how is this for a plan: disconnect the neg from pack to controller and leave disconnected. Then one by one replace each other cable I have new ones for. Lastly replace the new negative lead to controller and reattach to battery pack.

[JohnnieB]

The cables between motor and F/R switch carry the same current the 7 cables you are replacing carry.

It is a series chain and a chain is only as strong as its weakest link, so the cables between motor and F/R switch will become the bottleneck.

Keep an eye on them, they may get mighty hot.

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The plan for changing the cables out, sounds okay.

Changing them out one at a time all but eliminates wiring errors, but take pictures of how it is wired before you start, just in case.

[yurtle]

If you put the FNR in neutral, that will break the series, in addition to the solenoid "hopefully" being open.

As to sequence, I'd remove one cable completely. Then replace it completely. Don't let the loose end touch anything. Remove all rings, watches, and anything else metal. Use care when using wrenches or sockets. Your frame should not be "hot", but you should always treat it as if it were.

[yurtle]

In addition, for the FNR and motor, and maybe some solenoids, use two wrenches or one wrench and a socket. You want to hold the nut behind the lug, especially on the motor. If you spin the motor terminal, bad stuff can happen.

[ROBinGA]

My 4 ga welding cable set came today and I swapped the 7 cables out following advice above being slow and methodical. Good time spent with son doing that project. Moment of truth and cart works fine. I needed to replace the old battery cables because two of them were showing signs of getting worn. They were 6 ga that came when I bought this cart. Needed to go. Now I realize I need to get the other 6 for the other cables that need to be upgraded too so working on getting those. Near term plan is to replace remaining 6 cables then get upgrade pkg #485 and F/R cam for which I plan to use 36 v pack for a few more months or as pack still has usable life. Then longer term plan is change out battery pack and charger to 48 volts. No motor plans in either. Sound ok?

So our usage for the cart is terrain that is very typical to most golf courses since sporting clays is essentially golf with shotguns. It's just our cart paths are usually dirt or at fancy clubs fine gravel. No extreme hills or long runs at speed. The cart is lifted and has 22" tires and rear seat. We aren't going for top end high speed or to thrash the cart offroad on trails but do want to maintain momentum on hills. Rare occasions we may carry total of 4 passengers but usually its me and my son and gear in the front basket. So again a lot like golf but on dirt. With that in mind am I thinking about the right upgrade package?

[Sir Nuke]

ROB, you are right on the money, and you will love it. I conferred with ScottyB before I bought my upgrade, and he suggested that very package. and I too am running 36v, but will upgrade at the next pack change, and he knew that. the only difference in yours and mine, is that I have 23" tires, so no big deal there. and I went with 2 ga cables.

NOW, when you go to 48v's are you going to go with 6-8v's or 8 6v's?
why I bring it up, when I bought my cable set, I got the set made for 48v, the reason why, is the ones that go on the batteries are a little longer, since on a 8v battery, the posts are on the same side, not opposite like on 6v's. SO you may need to replace the ones on the batteries depending on the new batteries you get.

[ROBinGA]

Good to know about 8v battery terminals. I would plan to go 6 of the 8v batteries since I already have a 12 v in there powering accessories. So I guess at that point ill have to get appropriate cables. Here is a photo of the Trojans I was scoping out and you are right I didn't notice the difference. You learn so much here in BGW. My cables that connect each 6v now are 10" and have a little surplus bend in them so what length will be required for the 8vs?