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Gas Yamaha Gas Yamaha Golf Cars; G1 through "The Drive" and U-Max Utility Vehicles |
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05-05-2015, 11:32 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 36
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1982 G1 quit
OK. I replaced the igniter with a new one and still have no fire. What next? Any help is appreciated. Thanks- Mike
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05-05-2015, 01:00 PM | #2 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 7
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Re: 1982 G1 quit
seems like i am the last person that should be giving advice, as i am chasing the same demons on my G2.
answers to a few questions might make it easier to help diagnose. Have you looked at the sticky and performed the basic voltage checks, both positive and negative? it looks like you ground to the frame, so make sure both your battery ground and system ground are connected to frame. do you have a wiring schematic? what have you done so far? are all your leads in good shape? is the battery fully charged? does it present like its completely dead, or can you hear clicking, or other noises when you try to turn it over? |
05-05-2015, 03:06 PM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 36
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Re: 1982 G1 quit
I had this all in the first thread I posted a couple of days ago. Cart just quit while running well. Wet plug. No fire. Replaced igniter/coil- still no fire. All connections and fuses seem OK and show conductivity. Wondering what to replace next? CDI unit is expensive, but less expensive than a new cart! Not enough of a mechanic or electrician to do the cheap route on this site.
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05-05-2015, 05:06 PM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 7
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Re: 1982 G1 quit
Do you have a multi meter?
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05-05-2015, 05:10 PM | #5 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 36
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Re: 1982 G1 quit
Yes
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05-05-2015, 05:29 PM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 7
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Re: 1982 G1 quit
The first Thing that you need to do is check voltage at all your connections.
Start at the battery, you should have between 13.6 and 14.2 volts. Anything less than 12 volts warrants a new battery. I just read your last thread, and it sounds like you are missing spark. It looks like the G1s are grounded to the chassis. If you are missing ground at the head, you will not get spark. On old cars/carts, wiring tends to get either brittle and break, or corroded to the point where it impedes flow. It can look fine from the outside, but the wires inside (especially inside the loom where you can't see) may be at fault. The first thing I check for on old cars is always grounds. Keeping the red lead from your multi meter connected to the positive terminal on your battery, and using you wiring schematic, systematically move the black lead to every single ground location noted on schematic. This would include selenoids, switches, coil, control units, etc. If you are unsure of what are grounds, on the schematic, I can look at diagram later, and give you a check down list. Once you have established you have ground at EVERY location, you can move on to the next step. |
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