G9 -Bajeebus Rehab - No Start - the other twin

[justwondering]

While I'm waiting for my new carb to arrive, I thought I'd have a go at the other cart.

These twin g9s I inherited from my Dad's estate and have converted one to a clone (waiting on the new carb - but it does run ). The 2nd clone engine arrived with mechanical problems and is at the start of the return process.

That means I have a few weeks to futz with the 2nd cart - Bajeebus.


Problem:
Starter whines a bit, then starter belt rotates, drive belt rotates but engine does not fire.

What I've done so far:
I've got all four wheels to hold air or be replaced. Missing 1 lugnut on one rim.

I've replaced the negative lead from the battery to the starter. The original looked like spaghetti.

I've cleaned the top of the solenoid (starter relay).

The ignition coil that was on the cart had a broken black wire, and a red wire that was barely holding on. I took the ignition coil off the other engine and put it on Bajeebus.

The sparkplug was beyond black and grimey. I purchased new plug for it and installed it.

Gas was drained from the tank, fuel pump taken apart and cleaned, lines blown out, and all put back together. With starter running a vacuum is pulled and gas pulses from the line.

Carb was removed and no problems with sediment or lacquer. Float seems fine. Butterfly valves are free. HOWEVER, the housing that has the studs on it which the carb threads onto... that housing was cracked at the corner and loose. (carb spacer joint?) I removed the one from the other cart and replaced it on Bajeebus. Used RTV for gasket sealer.

I finger checked the motor mounts but haven't taken the motor off to see if I need to replace them. They feel like that are okay and the height seems okay, but I need to measure to get specifics.

The engine tensioner is missing.
I'll have to get one.

Looks like the fuse was removed from the positive line up near the voltage regulator.


SYMPTOMS
Pushing on the pedal, with the engine in neutral, starter whines for 5 to 10 seconds before it starts rotating.

The Drive belt has about 3 to 4 inches of deflection.... much more than the other cart. The belt looks new and has the following on it:
made in usa 3700- 215
Both the carts have the same belt originally ... the clone cart has a newer, longer belt from Vegascarts. Too long for this stock setup I believe.

The Drive belt is exceptionally easy to put on and the drive clutch never engages.

The engine never engages.

NEXT STEPS
1. Different Drive Belt?
2. Battery is charged at 100% now, try starting again and using choke more?
3. Is this a starter problem? Should I check it for a rebuild kit?
4. I have not checked the circlip for the rear.
5. I haven't checked the sparkplug for spark since I exchanged the coil and plug...need to check that

Any other recommendations?

I could trade the engines out. Take the original from the first cart and put in this cart. Swapping things as I need to.

GOAL
Determine if this engine is working and if not what to check on the bench.
Then put the other cart's original engine in this one and see if it works.

I know folks would like parts from the engines but if one of them works, I'd like to sell it intact or reuse it in anther cart.

[justwondering]

Electrical gremlin....
I'll sort this out and report back .

[justwondering]

The 10A fuse was cut out of the wiring harness.
Put the old fuse holder from the other cart into the line for now.

The power cable spade to the coil plug was broken.
Cut the power cable spade end off and put on a new spade end.

Used my cheater bar to push the pedal and it still whines for about 6 seconds then the starter turns. This time the engine started to run. ....

I let off the foot pedal.
Lowered the seat.
Jumped on.
Pushed the pedal
.....
nothing but silence... birds... sun shining... no electrical sounds at all

Got off. Raised the seat.

The dreaded 10A fuse blown dilemma.

What was it in the Sound of Music?
Lets start at the very beginning... a very good place to start.

lol

Multi-meter and start/stop switch, here I come.

[justwondering]

Brown wire and red wire to start/stop switch are fine.

Solenoid is not fine. Every post is showing voltage without the pedal pushed. Hmmm.

Swapped the other cart's solenoid for this one. Starter runs again and I don't get the dead silence.

Solenoid was bad ... another purchase needed.

[justwondering]

Moving up the electrical line to the coil and sparkplug.

Removed the sparkplug from the engine.
Put the plug wire back on it.
Grounded the plug to the engine case.
No spark.

Swapped the coil.
Did it again.
No spark.

Checked the plug wires.
Decided to replace the plug end on the orange wire.
Black looked okay.
Had already replaced the plug end on the red/white wire.

The only difference between the two coils is the sound and the performance of the starter.

One of the coils makes it sound high pitched.
The other coil makes is sound low pitched and it has a delay/whine before the rotation starts.

Neither coil sparks.

I haven't tested the plug voltage to it yet. Ran out of daylight.

The replacement tractor was delivered today, so I have 125hp waiting for my attention tomorrow as well as a 100Watt solar panel to install so this is on hold til later tomorrow or Sunday. Bleh.

[justwondering]

Tested one of the coils and it has a dead short on the primary side....
its toast.

Here is what I did:
Set the multi-meter to 20 Ohms Ω
On one side you'll notice 2 connectors- one large, one small.
Put the red (positive) lead on the large connector
AND
Put the black (negative) lead on the small connector.
Should be between 3.5 and 4.8

ALSO Check

With the red (positive) lead on the large connector
put the black (negative) lead into the sparkplug cap
Should be 11.2 to 15.2

Mine failed the first test between the two connectors.

Got the solar panel bracket modified, the solar panel post modified, and the new solar panel installed. The gate is now automated again! Yea home team...

[justwondering]

I'm pretty sure this can't get any better...

I started with 2 carts.
Converted one to a clone. Waiting on a carb from vegascarts.

The 2nd cart I decided to see if the engine would run.
traced several electrical issues but had the first cart parts that I could use since much of those are not needed with a clone motor.

Both ignition coils are toast. One has the primary shorted, one has the secondary shorted.
Solenoid in 2nd cart is bad as well. Swapped in the solenoid from the first cart and the starter kicks in. So I need a solenoid as well.

I managed to mangle my first order two days ago and inadvertantly send it to Georgia to my friend. What a goof.
He's going to reship everything to me after the hurricane goes through and the businesses open back up.
This second order I have correctly shipped to myself.

Too much on my mind I guess. lol

[ironmonkey17]

Don't get to caught up in that second motor if your gonna do another clone swap.., it would be nice to get them going for resale purposes.. by the way did you ever get that blank removed from that carb?

[justwondering]

did not get the blank removed from the carb on the clone cart.
I tried, but I can't tell if I drilled too far and went into the top of the screw or if I'm still on the blank.

I'm reworking the air intake on it and waiting for a new carb from vegascarts.

The hurricanes have really mucked up the deliveries.

Not to worry. I have a 63 Willys Jeep waiting for my attention after I get the carts done. And took delivery of a replacement tractor (125 hp) for the farm so there is plenty to keep me occupied.

These carts are just way too much fun and very easy to work on.

[sho305]

Plug on carb should be thin, once the outside of the drill goes in a little you are done. You might just pry it out with a small screwdriver or something.

That is odd its not very common for those coils to go out. It is common for lots of wiring issues and bad connections. You might have a bad ground if you see power everywhere, and it can't get back to battery.