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Old 08-01-2019, 05:44 AM   #1
Kclairmont83
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Illinois
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Default Yamaha G2 reverse grind/POP

Hello everyone! I recently bought a broke down Yamaha. g2 for $200. I had to do quite a bit of work to get it running. The carb mount was shattered and there was no fuel getting to the carburetor. New carb joint and a gravity feed tank and she was purring like a kitten!! After a few weeks of use, reverse started to act up.. when reverse is selected, it grinds and eventually pops into gear.. sometimes I have to fred flintstone is backwards a little to help it pop into gear. Is there a common adjustment or something I can do so reverse works as flawlessly as it did before? Thanks for all of your help in advance. I have a video of it on YouTube, but I don’t have just a pic to post here right this minute. It’s an ugly red with obnoxious seats and a homemade brush bar!
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Old 08-01-2019, 08:37 AM   #2
CP241
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Michigan
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Default Re: Yamaha G2 reverse grind/POP

Probably just needs a fuel pump replaced or cleaned out and you can ditch the gravity tank. I would also remove the fuel tank (it's easy, just a couple bolts) and at the bottom there's a big "cap" with the fitting for the fuel line going to the fuel pump. The fuel filter is on the inside of this cap. They deteriorate, disintegrate and generally make a big mess. REmove the tank, cut/scrape that fuel filter off, clean the tank well and when you put it back together, just use a regular fuel filter in-line with the fuel line between the pump and the carb.

As for the grind/pop, it's probably just in need of a cable adjustment. The shifter "arm" itself is on the front of the rear end between the rear end and the motor. You'll probably need to remove the muffler to have enough access to do anything back there. muffler if memory serves me right is 2 bolts where it bolts to the head, and 2 bolts on the support brace back behind it.

The "Arm" on the trans that the cables will move shifts to R and F. With the shifter straight up (unofficial "Neutral"), the arm should be in the middle. It should move equal distance in "F" as it does in "R". If you're having a hard time shifting to revers, I would bet you have more travel in the "F" direction than the "R" direction.

If the cables are really stiff or stretched beyond adjustment, they're not very expensive to replace.
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