350 with several minor (but annoying) running issues

[BrewCityMusic]

I've been dialing in the new Workhorse for a little over a week now, and I'm hoping someone can give me a push in the right direction so I can button up the engine side of things and move on to bigger and better things (like the body, lift, etc) ....

The cart was running really rough, spitting back through the carb, backfiring, etc and wouldn't get up to RPM's unless it was almost fully choked (and then it was a little goofy) - SO, I pulled and thoroughly cleaned the carb, jets, tube, etc and that helped a *bit* but now it still required almost 50% choke to keep running decently, and still wouldn't run "right" or up to full speed.

SO - first, the *cheat* valve adjustment, quarter turn all around and the popping and spitting basically went 99% away (they were REALLY off) so to ensure accuracy, I got my hands on some feelers and cold-adjusted to .004 - net result no more popping or spitting. STILL have to run it at 40% choke or so though, even when warmed up (if I open the choke it just fizzles out and dies) ...

SO - what now? The airbox and filter are brand new, plugs too, good spark, fuel lines and filter ... I'm thinking about busting the plastic off the air screw to see if I can get a bit more adjustment, OR I may just bite the bullet and grab a new carb for $80, any other ideas?

HERE's a small caveat / discliamer - the PO had about a gallon of premix in the tank (he figured "two cylinders, two cycle" I guess), and being impatient I just thinned it out with some regular gas, prob about 3.5gal - I figured after sitting for the better part of a year it wouldn't hurt to have a little extra lubrication til she got back running regularly - did I perhaps shoot myself in the foot somehow?

Any ideas or pointers at something I am (likely obviously) overlooking would be great, I have a lot of better things to drop an extra $80 on but if need be I'd really like to just make the engine portion of the equasion "done".

Thanks in advance as always, guys !!!!

OH - there's a small split in the breather tube (which I already ordered a replacement for) - THAT shouldn't have anything to do with any of the running issues though, right?

[RSP]

Split hose means nothing, forget about that. Mix gas in tank means nothing, will run just fine on mix gas , i do it all the time. make sure the fuel pump pulse hose that runs from the engine block to the fuel pump does not have oil trapped in it, that will make the fuel pump not work right. if your sure the carb is getting enough fuel to run, then something is still plugged up in that carb, clean out again, and blow the ever living crap out of it with the air compressor

[essness]

Originally Posted by RSP

Split hose means nothing, forget about that. Mix gas in tank means nothing, will run just fine on mix gas , i do it all the time. make sure the fuel pump pulse hose that runs from the engine block to the fuel pump does not have oil trapped in it, that will make the fuel pump not work right. if your sure the carb is getting enough fuel to run, then something is still plugged up in that carb, clean out again, and blow the ever living crap out of it with the air compressor

I have to agree based on what you've done already.
Might want to check the tank vent line and feed tube as well.

[BrewCityMusic]

Feed tube good, tried running it with tank cap off, check. The carb was a real PITA to get the tube out of (ended up having to use a small extractor through the bottom and a vice, MAN there was a lot of poop up in there) - maybe I'll tackle it with more success THIS time, although I blew pretty much 80% of an entire can of carb cleaner through it while doing the cleaning, as well as quad-checking everything.

Also, I've seen those pulse tubes fill up before, so when I mounted the new fuel pump I did it high and in a way that it drains straight back into the crankcase, no dips, no loops, nothing to trap oil (just to prevent that from happening) - I'm somewhat eliminating the supply to the carb in my mind though as it's pumping great and the cart *does* run consistantly with the choke pulled (which I would assume means the bowl is staying well-fed or it would hiccup, etc) ... I'm gonna listen to the voices of reason here and play with the carb in the AM first thing, I'm hoping You guys are right, Thanks!

(OH - and Scot, I got tied up last night with some more Township BS, didn't want to bug You on the phone too late - I'll touch base tomorrow AM, sorry about that!)

Dale

[beater cart]

My bet is carb needs to be pulled again and cleaned better. Go to wally world I believe I have seen carb cleaner in the gallon container that you soak the carb in. Pull every thing out of the carb including the idle screw and soak it for a few hours pull and rinse off and blow it out with compressed air.

[BrewCityMusic]

That's actually what I was thinking too, after going over the whole thing again (as well as having several better men than I explain it to me here, LOL) Beater - there was so much cr*p in there that I'm hoping I just managed to miss something somewhere and I was thinking an overnight (or at least all morning) soak *might* not be a bad move ...

Should have an answer by tomorrow night, otherwise looks like I'm going to roll the $80 dice, dangit. Today just got worse too, after dinner FedEx dropped off the wrap for the cart, and they shipped the wrong stuff. On the upside, the seller is going to reship the right stuff (and I get to keep the 8X5ft Gloss Black they sent on accident, so there's that) but it still sorta put me in an "Anti-Cart" mood tonight, oh well.

[worqhors]

I had a similar problem. All I did was to replace the fuel pump. It's now running fine.

[RSP]

Still sounds like the carb is plugged to me, thats the first place i`d go

[beater cart]

I work on boats for a living so I own a good sized ultra sonic cleaner it works well for the stubborn carbs. I bought it after going to class and Yamaha recommends the use of an ultrasonic machine on there carbs. But I have had great results from the old carb soak tanks as well as an aluminum pot with omc engine tuner in it as well.

[BrewCityMusic]

WELL - the Berrymans' Chem Dip worked wonders, shined the carb up inside and out, looks almost brand-spankin-new. Blew it all out, started to reassemble, and SNAPPED THE DANG POST that the float pivot pin goes through.

AT this time, the new carb is basically a Mute point. Gotta happen.

At any rate, if the new carb doesn't fix things then I guess I can start looking in another direction *sigh*